A Review of Schiaparelli SS25: Future Vintage - A Timeless Balance of Surrealism and Femininity
Daniel Roseberry presents a star-studded ready to wear runway offering classic clothes for future generations
Held inside Paris’s historic Place Vendôme on Thursday evening, this show was one of this week's most anticipated events. The location is home to the first Schiaparelli boutiques and where the fashion house was brought back to life in 2012, making it a suitable stage for Schiaparelli’s creative director Daniel Roseberry’s avant-garde SS25 ready-to-wear collection.
The show “Future Vintage” is inspired by the women in Roseberry’s life. His intention for the designs is for them to be timeless, Roseberry’s collection notes highlighted the clothes are “not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters.”
Opening with one of the most staple Schiaparelli looks, the first models displayed corseted bodysuits, cinching in their waists and sculpting them into hourglass figures. The designer’s notes mention the “intentionally tight” fit designed to complement the feminine physique. Like most Schiaparelli shows, femininity was a central theme, and Roseberry credited “the women who brought” the collection “to life”. Oval cuts seen in the opening looks were used throughout the collection, either on waistlines, necklines, or showing off the model’s backs, these iconic cuts have been seen on celebrities including Emily Blunt, Zendaya, Hunter Schafer and Doja Cat throughout the year.
Supermodel Kendall Jenner was the third model to walk out onto the runway in what at first seemed a simple white corseted shirt and dark denim jeans with a dramatic U-shaped waist but was, in fact, a masterfully crafted bodysuit. Roseberry’s choice to make Schiaparelli’s signature designs look simpler aligns with his vision that these pieces are lasting and made to be worn by multiple generations.
Other noticeable names walking the runway included Canice Swanepoel, who wore a dark denim dress with a gold zip running down the back, a nod to Elsa Schiaparelli, who was the first designer to incorporate zippers into dresses. Adriana Lima made her runway return after a six-year break, wearing an off-white, black chequered shirt dress with gold buttons and a corset. Social media conveyed their excitement at the Brazilian model’s return, with one user commenting, “So happy she’s back”. Vittoria Ceretti, Irina Shayk and Angelina Kendall all walked the runway as well, this star-studded model lineup made up for the lesser-than-usual Schiaparelli show’s celebrity attendees.
The techno music pounded as models continued to strut to the metronomic beat down the blue carpet. Zebra print, an array of sea blues and bright red outfits made their way onto the runway, accessorised with mismatching earrings, a trend that will surely be seen this summer. All the models had slick back buns projecting an effortlessly polished look, a trendy style choice seen in many of the fashion houses’ runways. Additionally, a common style choice brands have been making, is clear, subtle make-up, unlike the bold clothes of this collection, the beauty element remained elegantly understated.
Gold, nude and black heels were worn in the show, most of them had measuring tape embroidered on them. Embroidered details are yet another tribute from Roseberry to Elsa Schiaparelli and the history of this prestigious brand. However, a new show feature was a range of flats. Models were dressed in silver or gold “moulded slippers” that gave the illusion of a foot featuring long thin foot bones sticking out the top of the slipper and had a toe ring wrapped around the moulded toe, proving Roseberry isn’t afraid to experiment beyond the Schiaparelli’s norm.
The show closed with three stunning floral and sequined looks, the embodiment of spring and summer; the final two models wore thick chocker necklaces, which are reminiscent of the historical Aspirin necklace first designed by founder Elsa Schiaparelli.
The collection has received glowing responses on social media, with one woman on Instagram stating, “Each is a sculptural masterpiece”. Celebrities, too, took to the comment section, flooding it with praise, artist Jordin Sparks commented “I love this entire collection. Wow.”.
This show concludes that surrealism remains at the core of Schiaparelli. Roseberry has embellished Elsa Schiaparelli’s legendary designs but has not lost track of the fashion house’s roots. Throughout this collection, he used the iconic keyhole and surrealist eye, which were both seen in the bags, belts, shoes, earrings and embroidered into clothes. The keyhole was originally used by Elsa Schiaparelli to convey the sense of mystery behind the clothes, and similarly, the eye is used to symbolise the unknown, considered by surrealists to be the doorway from the outside world to the soul. Daniel Roseberry’s carefully cultivated “Future Vintage” proves yet again he is the perfect artist for Schiaparelli, putting the fashion house at the forefront of trendsetting while honouring its legendary foundations.