Burberry AW24 takes on the great British outdoors
Burberry is synonymous with britishness, and what’s more British than wrapping up warm?
It’s hard to believe that the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2024 show at London Fashion Week was only Daniel Lee’s third show for the brand. Burberry is synonymous with britishness, and what’s more British than wrapping up warm?
Who is Daniel Lee?
Daniel Lee became the Chief creative officer of Burberry in October 2022, when he was just 36. Prior to this, he held the position of creative director at Bottega Veneta. He claims to have a sentimental connection to the brand, as he is “from Bradford, Yorkshire, very close to Castleford, where the trench coats are manufactured, and to Keighley, where the gabardine is made,” He continues; “So it’s very close to my homeland. And some of my mum’s family worked in various factories that were supplying for Burberry. My mum actually has the trench coat that her aunt had gotten as a retirement gift. It’s kind of sweet.” (Phelps, 2022)
Comfortable and practical
This ready-to-wear show was all about practicality, which was even shown in the accessories. There were lots of zips, especially on the trousers and bags. Many of the models were holding umbrellas, as if ready for a classic London rainstorm, while others had scarves wrapped around their head and necks. Much larger fringed scarves were also seen dangling as the models walked. Some of these accessories had the classic Burberry tartan print - but as a whole, this signature design was not used much in the show. Nonetheless, it was still undeniably Burberry-esque.
Lee described the show as: “A feeling of outdoorsy elegance, of comfort and warmth”. (Carter-Morley, 2024)
The models wore tall boots with buckles, peeping out from under their heavy coats which were lined with thick shearling or a sort of picnic-blanket material. The coats were the focal point of the show, arguably playing the role of a reimagined, more season-appropriate take on the renowned Burberry trench coat. Collars were lifted, pieces were funnel-necked, and zips were zipped up high to replicate how the everyday person would tackle the British cold.
(Image from Launchmetrics Spotlight)
These high collars on top of the masculine, angular silhouettes and broad shoulders suggest a military influence. Even the sunglasses resembled aviators belonging to fighter pilots. However, whilst the coats and scarves were an ode to the designer’s past, Lee also displayed extreme V necks on the male models, and pops of fur on some others. Is this his slow movement to a new, more gen-z-inspired Burberry?
Materials
Even the materials of the pieces were quintessentially British. Daniel Lee mentioned that he “wanted to take a traditional approach to the fabrics and how each piece is made. Craftsmanship has always been at the heart of design.” he continued, “The collection itself is inspired by British and Irish wool and fabric, centred around protection and warmth. Burberry trenches are designed with texture in mind. Coats are at the core, shoes and bags are functional. These pieces are made for the outdoors.” (Mcfarland, 2024)
Atmosphere
In regards to the surroundings of the catwalk, Lee said: “I wanted it to feel like a forest at night.” (Carter-Morley, 2024) Hence, the runway was dimly lit, and took the unusual form of a long, meandering path. The forest feel was also brought to life by the organic, green-y palette, not only in the furnishings, but also the clothing, such as the bohemian look below (Image by Launchmetrics Spotlight). The colour green also embodies the colour of the stereotypical British landscape.
It took place in a tent in London’s Victoria Park, where soft faux grass lined the floor. Ivy by Perfumer H was used to scent the tent. This smell is perfectly fitting for the show, with its intentions described as “to create an English garden in autumn; hints of bramble bushes intertwined with green ivy.” (Ivy Room Spray, n.d)
The designs were also accompanied by some songs by Amy Winehouse; “You Know I’m No Good”, “Halftime” and “Back to Black”. Encapsulating Britishness would arguably not be accurate without featuring the beloved late British singer. Amy Winehouse once said: "I love London... The smell of London when it rains," (Marain, 2024) - and I bet she would have loved it even more wearing Burberry’s rainy couture.
Familiar faces
Walking in the show was Naomi Campbell, who has been affiliated with Burberry for many years now. She is an iconic symbol of British fashion and dominated the industry in the 1980s and 90s. Additionally, Agyness Deyn, the pinup of early 00s British fashion, opened the show. She was followed by other familiar faces from years ago, such as Lily Cole, Lily Donaldson and Karen Elson. The choice of models brings a sense of mid-noughties nostalgia, sustaining the idea of celebrating the glory days of Britain, and Burberry.
There was as much of a show off the runway as there was on it. Continuing on the idea of a new Burberry with a younger appeal, in attendance were many young celebrities who are known for their britishness. These included Cara Delevingne, Elizabeth Jagger and sister Georgia May Jagger, Iris Law and Lila Moss.