Burberry brings “the outside indoors“ in grande London Fashion Week finale
Burberry brings “the outside indoors“ in grande London Fashion Week finale
Undoubtedly the highlight of the week, the Burberry showcase drew a large multitude of A-Listers such as Barry Keoghan to watch Noughties supermodel Naomi Campbell return to the catwalk.
The heritage British brand drew crowds to the Olympic-sized tent in Victoria Park this Monday closing off London Fashion Week with charming splendor. Scented in the fragrance Ivy by Perfumer H the runway had the aura of an enchanted forest with a mossy grass floor and dimmed lights setting the scene for the Winter Autumn 2024 Burberry Women and Menswear collection.
In it’s known fashion Burberry’s creative director, Daniel Lee, drew inspiration from it’s homeland’s landscapes and people and stated in his show notes that the collection should conjure “a feeling of warmth, protection and outdoorsy elegance.“ Accompanied by Amy Whitehouse’s melodic singing the showcase conveyed a thick air of nostalgia intensified by the singer’s audio clips in between: “I love London…the smell of London when it rains.“
Staying true to it’s heritage the focal point of the collection were the tailored trench coats, revamping statement outerwear with Burberry’s characteristic muted colours in an interplay of nostalgic past and present. In his third collection for the Brand, Lee brought out an array of trenches, overcoats, duffels, shearlings and parkas lined with fur and fringes, high funnel necks and added the cherry on top with utilitarian details as well as extensive bags and versatile shoes reminiscent of the outdoorsy heritage.
Burberry’s signature tartan-checkered pattern reoccured throughout the entire collection in scarfs worn traditionally around the neck or as remodeled headpieces, within the detachable linings of coats and pleated skirts. The colour palette includes muted green’s and browns calling to mind a child’s watercolour painting that mixed too many colours together and ended up with a muddy forest ground feel. While overcoats were definitely the core of the collection, the designer did unveil a lineup of stunning gowns, impeccably tailored two-piece suits as well as the casual pants and knitwear jumper combination adding to the forest fairytale tone.
Opening the showcase with a Burberry-esque signature gabardine trench coat tailored to perfection with a high funnel neckline in a dark cloudy grey reminisced of an approaching British storm set the tone for the rest of the collection. The funneled neckline we’ve seen all over New York Fashion Week’s showcases is a reoccurring trend in London as well and is setting the trend for this autumn season.
In the show notes provided by Burberry, it was stated that Daniel Lee dived further into the rich heritage of the luxury brand and drew on inspiration from past collections, establishing a link to it’s roots: “We began in the Burberry archive and the mills of Lochcarron and Donegal. I wanted to take a traditional approach to the fabrics and how each piece is made. Craftsmanship has always been at the heart of design.“
Adding fuel to the nostalgia infused atmosphere Naomi Campbell stunned on the catwalk in a flowing moss-green off the shoulder evening gown. The fringes accentuating each of the supermodel’s movements reflecting the light and making her billowing gown look like a sparkling British rain shower. Joining Naomi on the runway were a posse of Burberry’s favorite British models Lily Donaldson, Malaika Firth, Edie Campbell and the highly influential designer Phoebe Philo’s daughter Maya Wigram who took the last lap before the finale. As expected the luxury brand showcased familiar faces on the catwalk as well as the front row–such as Saltburn star Barry Keoghan, models Lila Moss and Cara Delevingne who used to walk for Burberry herself, national football legend Gareth Bale, hot-topic Callum Turner and highly acclaimed actress Dame Olivia Colman.
The oversized silhouette carries it’s way through the entire showcase while still emitting polished sophistication. Dazzling gowns in a loose and soft draping paired with practical knee boots make their way across the catwalk, followed by coats of rich texture, some of which are revamped as capes. The pieces are flaunting extensive sleeves, necklines and skirt hems lined with fur or fringes in couture-grade tailoring.
Another trend that has found it’s way into the Burberry collection is the pleated skirt. Following the established silhouette the pleated maxi skirts cascade down beautifully with billowing movements in green and brown tones as well as the Burberry tartan check. Hero pieces aside from the obvious signature trenches were the oversized bags that adorned most of the outfits and finished off the look. With longer as well as decorative straps the bags are wearable across the body or left hanging over the shoulder emitting that duffel airport utility bag vibe. They are highly versatile and add to the idea of the collection to bring the outside indoors.
In a melancholic finale Naomi Campbell closed the showcase backed up by Amy Winehouse’s emotive “Back to Black“ vocals enhancing the hue of nostalgia leaving the tent in a darkened pensive atmosphere. Daniel Lee’s designs are staying true to the Burberry oversized and yet fine-tailored silhouette of elegance, reimagining the meaning of outerwear without relinquishing any of it’s utility and versatility. The effortless chic sophistication of this collection will undoubtedly make an appearance on red carpets and galas as well as in the everyday wardrobe of fashion enthusiast with an affection for the refined.
