Burberry London Fashion Week AW24: A Homage To Heritage and Craftsmanship
Daniel Lee closes London Fashion Week with an insightful look back into Burberry’s intrinsic past heritage.
Yes, that was Agyness Deyn who opened the Burberry London Fashion Week AW24 show, and yes, that was icon, Amy Winehouse’s soundtrack playing in the background. As Burberry brought London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2024 to a close, guests and attendees were left with a lasting feel of nothing but nostalgia and reminiscence of Burberry’s history and heritage, with also an encouraging and promising nod to the future, and playful vision of Burberry under Daniel Lee’s rather new creative direction and reign.
The Burberry show, held in East London’s Victoria Park, most definitely reflected and celebrated London Fashion Week’s 40th Anniversary. It was a common theme amongst many designers to have at the heart of their shows, a sense of honour and commemoration towards London Fashion Week and the appreciation for fashion it continuously brings biannually, year after year. Burberry, alongside other exceptional top designers such as Molly Goddard and ERDEM, used their time on the catwalks as an opportunity to reflect and scrutinise their intrinsic heritage, which has led them to the vision that these designers deliver today.
In Daniel Lee’s third outing for Burberry since taking the role as Chief Creative Officer in October 2022, he took his guests outside to East London’s Victoria Park, elevating and enhancing his nod towards Burberry’s limitless harmony with the great outdoors, a notion that is unambiguous and unmistakable throughout the show. Lee said, “Clothes should evoke a feeling of warmth, protection, and outdoorsy elegance. Inspired by the landscapes and people of the UK and Ireland.” Guests took their seats under an expansive, black, circus-like tent lined with Burberry flags, whilst the models later exhibited the looks on a catwalk crafted from gravel.
Burberry being one of the most anticipated shows of the week, did not disappoint with the attendee list. The front row seated huge names such as Dame Olivia Colman, Callum Turner, Dua Lipa and Dame Joanna Lumley. There was Hollywood’s rising star and most talked about actor right now, Barry Keoghan, who himself donned an all-beige, signature Burberry fit, with the contrast of a crisp, new pair of Nikes. The Burberry tent not only occupied these big names for the night, but also welcomed known figures from the sports and music industries. Famous footballers Bukayo Saka and Gareth Bale made an appearance, alongside music stars such as Skepta, Lily Allen, Loyle Carner, Dizzee Rascal, Lil Simz and Central Cee, who all came out to show their encouragement towards Daniel Lee in the still very premature stage of his role at Burberry.
Noughties fashion idol, Agyness Deyn, opened the show, ending her year after year long hiatus. Deyn showcased the unapologetic sartorial and opulent style that ran through every look in the show. She donned a sophisticated dark grey, knee-length, turtleneck trench coat. This opening look instantly reinforced Lee’s aim of the collection “to feel warm and protective.” Other models followed embedding the moody, yet palatial feel of the designs. Many of the looks served to be weather considerate, functional, and practical, with utility and military influences, whilst also articulating elegance. The colour palette across all the designs spoke to the great outdoors and was nothing more than a sea of khaki greens, browns, greys, dark blues, and mustard yellows.
Lee mentioned in his show notes that “The collection itself is inspired by British and Irish wool and fabric, centred around protection and warmth. Burberry trenches are designed with texture in mind. Coats are at the core, shoes and bags are functional. These pieces are made for the outdoors.” Look after look demonstrated this, from tailored trench and duffle coats to chunky boots with equestrian inspired straps and exceedingly oversized weekend bags with unnecessarily over-the-top detailing. The texture of the clothing was a fundamental aspect of the show also, with shearlings, braided fringes & fleecy wools being showcased, helped pay a real homage to the people of Britain and Ireland, the heritage of Burberry and the emphasis on craftsmanship.
As Burberry’s AW24 show and London Fashion Week came to a near close, it was apparent Lee’s homage to heritage. The insightful look back into the past at tradition and craftsmanship, with also a modern and contemporary vision to design, tied in seamlessly with London Fashion Week’s 40th Anniversary. A respectful nod was also felt towards late Queen Elizabeth II, with the resurrection of the plaid and tartan patterns throughout the show which was once a staple in her wardrobe.