Burberry’s Spring and Summer 2025 collection offers a beacon of hope for one of Britain’s most treasured fashion exports.

Burberry is moving into a new phase. Revoking Avant Garde for a more traditional and accessible design.

The latest collection by Daniel Lee shows Burberry has changed path. The new look and direction is clear for all to see. The return to what has served the brand so well since its inception is now back at the forefront of the company, taking centre stage.

The array of looks follows a sense of familiarity. The classic nuances are being infused with a new bright, refreshing feel. Lee himself went on to note the spring and summer collection as being “Grounded in joy and a warm sense of familiarity”.

The constant recurrence and foreshadowing of the synonymous Burberry house check could be seen as a lead inspiration in many of the pieces. While avoiding using it in an obvious manner, the inspiration can be clearly noted. Again tapping into the past and backbone of the company, when asked about the check, Lee said: “I really like the check. “I want to treat it as one of the most precious elements of the house, in the way that the trench is.”

The allocation of the first piece on the runway is often a great indicator and trend setter for the audience and gives them a sense of initial direction that is to follow. Thus, why the use of a trench coat design holds much relevance. On the trench coat design, Lee said: “We need to find smart ways to evolve Burberry beyond a runway collection to what works in stores. Burberry is a coat brand and a coat is something people invest in.”

The idea of becoming more sustainable and relatable as a brand to the consumer is a clear point of reference for Lee. Trying to change a failing image in a way of sustainability is clearly being laid out from the powers and directors that be.

In a time for the company where failing to resonate with the wider public and fashion community could really be detrimental to the company moving forward. Lee managed to pull off an astonishingly strong collection of pieces.

Burberry saw a drop out of the FTSE 100 this year. And noted a sharp drop in their market capitalization. This being one of the main reasons and important factors, why the company turned to Joshua Schulman as their new CEO. In an attempt to turn around a company that had become too familiar with market losses and a loss of relevancy in their chosen market segment.

On the new appointment, Lee said: “Burberry in its heyday enjoyed American CEO leadership with a British designer. Hopefully that’s a synergy we can revive.”

This being a great indicator of why there has been such a drastic change in direction and style followed by Burberry. The reality of trying to appeal to a much larger audience is becoming a main strategy.

The setting for the show can be found at the National Theatre. The setting and background was spearheaded by Gary Hume. The collection represented were focused around a unique green fabric set. Which was reportedly inspired by Humes 1990 art installation bays, where large green fabric sheets were hung in a manner to emulate modernist hospital doors.

Hume described the set in the way of: “What is so great about making art is that it’s so interesting. You’re always looking and then always making.”

When it came to who was there, the guest list was extended to some of the most important and impactful celebrities and influencers this country has to offer. When it comes to the London Fashion Week, the foyers are decorated with the likes of Jerry Hall and Olivia Coleman. Along with athletes such as Declan Rice, Bukayo Saka and Marc Guehi.

The ability to connect the show and brand with valuable cultural assets can help build back a connection with a wider audience that they had started to alienate. The introduction of people like Arsenal and England international Declan Rice and Chelsea’s Cole Palmer. Shows a real change in marketing strategy from Burberry, and offers further evidence of the directional change that Schumer and Lee are taking the brand.

Drop the Avant Garde for relatable classic fashion. With a twist of new.