Burberry's Spring/Summer 25 collection showed a brand re-discovering its identity.

With a refreshed identity courtesy of Daniel Lee, Burberry goes back to classic outerwear

      Some of Burberry's looks

Burberry demonstrated the fruits of their new focus following their executive shakeup and tough financial performance in the last year, with a show that bridged the gap between their classic designs and a younger audience, all while maintaining their traditionally British feel. 

A minimalistic show housed within London’s National Gallery set the stage for the brand to demonstrate their new commitment to sticking to their legacy as a house known for outerwear built for British weather. As the country’s premier luxury brand, Burberry has faced an interesting problem throughout the last few years. As other high-end brands embrace increasingly radical identities with bold colours and textures, Burberry got a little lost in the mix. 

   Some of the outfits from a Burburry show in 2022, a far cry from what was seen recently (Getty)

As the company fell further into economic struggles, former Coach boss Joshua Schulman was brought in as CEO earlier in 2024, aiming to bring back “more of the timeless, classic attributes that Burberry is known for”. Schulman seems to be accelerating a drive that was already underway in 2023, with the brand returning to a more classically inspired logo that stands out amongst the bold sans-serif font choices of practically every other brand. 

Former creative director Riccardo Tisci no doubt helped to bring the brand to a younger audience but had been criticised for failing to truly capitalise on the brand’s traditional English roots. His successor, Daniel Lee, has clearly turned that ship around by bringing the focus back to the traditional. 

The iconic check pattern also made an appearance across many of the outfits on show, emblazoned on jackets, trousers, and shirts. Sometimes it’s just peeking through an open part of a jacket, other times stamped across the entire look. It’s clearly an incredibly important piece of the puzzle for Lee, who said, “I want to treat it as one of the most precious elements of the house”. 

Lee has brought in influence from a few different styles to this collection. Some feel incredibly traditional, others inject some variation with the occasional boldly coloured skirt or leopard print pattern. Some, like the looks pictured below, embodied a casual laid-back attitude, sunglasses, sandals and even sequin dresses were all in the mix. 

The models themselves, though a diverse crowd, had one key thing in common. They were all far younger and far less famous than one might expect. This isn’t a show of the past, where the stars on the catwalk are almost as important as the clothes they wear. In this show, the focus was solely on Lee’s work.  

The whole Spring/Summer 2025 collection exemplifies Burberry’s attitude perfectly. Everything feels thought out in a way that extends beyond their appearance. These are pieces designed for the runway, but many have clear functions and a more everyday appeal. Be they classic Burberry jackets or bolder outfits that put a spin on the brand’s heritage, these are all clothes built for a purpose beyond just looking good.

The set, designed by British artist Gary Hume, is another link back to the brand’s traditional heritage. It’s a unique space that places the focus on the clothing, not the celebrity guests in the audience or dramatic staging. It feels like a “back to basics” approach that lets the clothing stand out. 

The set (Burberry)

The brand’s new focus even extended to the guest list, drawing from an extensive but very British list of stars. Actors like Barry Keoghan and Olivia Colman, sports superstars like Arsenal’s Declan Rice, and even TikTok influencers like Nara Smith were in attendance.  Many of these stars also feature in the brand’s new ad campaigns, showcasing far more conservative items than from previous years and really hitting you over the head with their “britishness”. But Olivia Colman driving through the countryside in a classic Defender feels almost a little too on the nose. 

Olivia Colman in Burberry Ad (Burberry)

But this advertising has been effective. Burberry’s campaigns stretch from wall to wall in Heathrow airports’ baggage claim, and they’ve grabbed the attention of TikTok users with short films starring actors, footballers, and musicians. They might not be as laser-focused on Gen-Z as Loewe’s sometimes outrages TikTok efforts, but Burberry’s refreshed approach to marketing shows how their new approach is changing more than just the designs at their shows. 

This recent show, as well as Burberry’s new advertising push, shows a brand going through a phase of metamorphosis. Speaking backstage, Lee had an ambitious and surprisingly realistic attitude towards the collection and the brand as a whole. “We need to find smart ways to evolve Burberry beyond a runway collection to what works in stores.” While times might have been tough as the brand muddled around chasing the same bold designs as many other fashion houses with a return to their roots, Burberry seems to have finally found themselves.