BURBERRY'S WEATHER WARRIORS: Storming #LFW24 with Brit-chic outdoor glamour
BURBERRY'S WEATHER WARRIORS: Storming #LFW24 with Brit-chic outdoor glamour
Celebrating London Fashion Week’s 40th anniversary, expectations were set high for Britain’s leading luxury player. But it seems Burberry’s 38-year-old creative director, Daniel Lee was up for the task with a collection that would truly remind the fashion world - no one does British like Burberry.
The event was held in Victoria Park, a homage to its historic relationship with East London (where its factory proudly ran in Chatham Palace from 1953-91). From the get-go, Burberry channelled their rich heritage of sophistication as the British super brand erected enormous, almost circus-like turreted tents. The venue was remarkably styled to resemble a medieval pavilion, each peak championing the equestrian logo which regally waved in the winds of Fashion Week.
Inside, the moody lights dimly mimicked the street lights littering London’s rainy, grunge streets alongside a floor carpeted with soft matt grassing, the atmosphere set the scene for Lee’s ‘Forest at night' as the show began with an Amy Winehouse-led soundtrack, nailing British heritage with every quirky detail.
Great British Weather
Whilst Lee made his intentions to democratise Burberry clear to the FT, observers (myself included) were sceptical of how he was going to take the brand and cater to the expectations of an incredibly broad fanbase.
“The curse of the beauty of this brand is that it appeals to a broad spectrum of people from football fans to the royal family” Daniel Lee says to the Guardian.
But it seems Lee managed to find this neutral territory he was after, capturing the uniting essence of British conversation; The Great British Weather.
Grounded in a neutral palette of classic creams, military greens and earthy browns, this collection marches out of quarantine core (in chunky, lug-soled boots) – welcoming the Great British outdoors.
“I wanted it to feel like…outdoorsy elegance, of comfort and warmth,” Said Lee to the Guardian.
And that it did, with parkas and puffer jackets, fur-trimmed coats and high neck mohair sweaters, equestrian stirrup boots and umbrellas for accessories. The collection screamed ‘outdoorsy elegance’. Think of a cross between Alice Temperley’s muddy wellies in Somerset and Gwyneth Paltrow’s Ski Court case lookbook and you have the masterful Burberry 2024 Autumn/winter collection which graced our runway.
And of course, If there’s one thing Burberry fans expect coming to a show is that it's all about the coats. From film cameos on Audrey Hepburn, off duty Jackie Kennedy paparazzi moments to Malaika Firth's Heathrow-plastered billboards, The ubiquitous trench coat has remained a timeless staple for Burberry and so, of course, it featured on the runway, only this time tampered with a deliberately crumpled look, sporting collars hoisted high against the rain, and in some cases given a plaid makeover. The contemporary re-vamp offers an authentic, modern streetwear look whilst continuing to elegantly champion its heritage of British sophistication.
Nod to the Noughties
This authenticity seems to have extended towards their bags, as models Lily Cole and Agyness Deyne sported XL bags, waving goodbye to the mini bag era which has so desperately been drawn out and welcoming stylish functionality in a Mary-Kate Olsen abusing her Birkin (iconic), nod to the noughties type of way. And it seems this wasn’t the only mid-2000s trope with maxi skirts, aviator sunglasses, classic checked scarf layered under coats and of course shoulder bags, all making an appearance. From their accessories to perfect casting (Lily Donaldson, Jean Campbell, Karen Elson and Lennon Gallagher) Burberry captures that British indie sleaze- late noughties era and (hats off to Lee) somehow does so in the classiest way possible.
THE DRESS
Of course, reminding their A-star Front row spectators (including British rapper Skepta, Bridgertons’ Jonathon Bailey, and industry icons like Cara Delevingne and Anna Wintour), that whilst they may draw inspiration from the popular noughties era, Burberry is everything but sleaze - slicing through its moody atmosphere and grunge greys was the maxi dress Naomi Campbell glamorously ended the show in, offering a sparkle to the earthy tones which dominated the runway. The British icon dazzled in a beaded, charcoal shaggy tassel, bandeau dress – a visual of versatility; whether in a Duchess of Devonshire feeding her chickens in a four-strand pearl necklace type of way or Kate Moss leaving Annabel's Mayfair, Burberry remains synonymous of classic, British style.
