“Cinched to the Gods” - Schiaparelli’s Return to Corsetry
A Modern Take on Vintage Silhouettes – How Daniel Roseberry's Prêt à Porter Collection Reimagines Classic Corsetry for the Modern Woman
Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection marks a dramatic return to corsets and vintage silhouettes, with a fresh, modern twist. Structured bodices were paired with flowing fabrics, which created a balance of strength and elegance. Bringing this vision to life on the runway at Paris Fashion Week in September 2024 were a lineup of notable models, including young Australian model Stella Hanan opening, followed by Kendall Jenner, Irina Shayk, and Adriana Lima, making her much-anticipated return after six years.
Creative director, Daniel Roseberry continues to shape fashion history with his bold approach. In this collection for Schiaparelli, he revives iconic designs whilst honouring Elsa Schiaparelli’s love for Surrealism. In this collection he also pushes boundaries through a range of accessories, such as gold jewellery, repurposed denim, and his unique range of flat shoes.
Corsets and Tight Silhouettes
In 1937, Elsa Schiaparelli, redefined the hourglass silhouette and iconic corsets, and almost a century later, Roseberry has done the same with Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. His “cinched to the gods” vision transforms corsets from a historical relic into a modern statement of power and style. Structural silhouettes, precise tailoring and sculptured fits balance strength with femininity.
Schiaparelli’s 1938 Skeleton Dress, created with Salvador Dali, was a key moment in surrealist fashion, capturing the uncertainty of the late 1930’s with the Great Depression and the threat of WWII. The dress embodied the ideal body of the era, with subtle curves and high waistlines, just as fashion was shifting to the hourglass figure. Roseberry countries this legacy today by redefining corsetry, making it a symbol of strength and femininity.
Google trends showed an increase in searches for corsets between 2020 and 2021. This was around the same time that the well known Netflix series Bridgerton was released, featuring fashion from the 1800’s as well as a number of corsets.
The Kardashians also played a significant role in bringing back the trend with waist trainers, highlighting extreme curves. Now celebrities like Rihanna, Bella Hadid, and Lizzo are keeping the trend going with bold and modern looks. It's clear that corsets have been transformed over time from a symbol of restriction to a statement of confidence and style.
Colour Palette
The collection predominantly featured neutral tones, including whites, blacks, and animal prints across the accessories, creating a grounded, timeless feel. “Titled ‘Future Vintage’, this collection was designed to establish instant heirlooms that will be passed down through generations.” Shiny materials added a modern touch without relying on sequins. A small but striking portion of the collection featured bold reds, yellows and blues, which contrasted against the naturals and helped define the show's energetic mood. The collection ended with more dramatic looks, featuring intricate details and bead like materials that added a sense of grandeur.
Accessories
The collection stays true to Schiaparelli’s surrealist style, with the addition of bold and fun accessories. The return of the ‘Secret’ bag, featuring the signature Padlock clasp, comes in a variety of shapes, while the debut of the Hobo’ bag in zebra jacquard and soft, over-dyed cotton is a standout. These bags, available in full and mini sizes, are sure to become must-have pieces in 2025.
The collection’s footwear was impossible to miss, with an exclusive line of flats, a surprise to most in the crowd, given Schiaparelli’s reputation for bold heels. These closed-toe flats mould into the shape of the human foot, coming in black, silver, beige, and aqua-blue ombre. The design mirrors the silhouette of the collection's bodices. Accentuating the bone lines of the feet, creating a deeper connection between the shoes and the structured garments.
Mismatched earrings make an obvious statement throughout the show, while chunky gold bangles and jewellery featuring Schiaparelli’s iconic motifs, ears, lips and shells, continue to echo the fashion brand's legacy. The maximalist aesthetic is further emphasised with statement gold pieces, tying into the surrealist theme.
Hallmark bags like the ‘Antonomy’ and ‘Keyhole’ adopt bold hues of red and canary yellow, with some pieces reflecting the show's set colour of blue. The new ‘Hobo’ bag features signature 3D gold embellishments, bringing an element of luxury. Among the trompe l’oeil (deceived the eyes) range, heels and slides make their bold appearance, while braided ties return in new fabrications, connecting past with present collections. Braiding also emerged as a recurring theme throughout the pieces, often acting as an accessory that is styled like a whip, adding texture and movement to the pieces.
In closing, Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection celebrates the timeless power of corsetry with a fresh take on femininity and strength. Roseberry’s focus on creating "clothes not just for our client, but for their daughters and granddaughters," shows his commitment to designing pieces that will be passed down through generations.