ERDEM AW24 Collection: A Tribute to Maria Callas’s Timeless Elegance
Capturing the essence of a bygone era while staying firmly rooted in contemporary fashion. showcased ERDEM's ability to create items that resonate with the modern woman's sense of style.
In a spectacular fusion of fashion and cultural homage, ERDEM's Autumn Winter 2024 collection graced the runways of London Fashion Week with a profound tribute to Maria Callas, an American Greek-born opera sensation from 100 years ago. Erdem Moralıoğlu, the creative force behind the brand, orchestrated a mesmerizing showcase that transported attendees to a bygone era while simultaneously celebrating the enduring allure of timeless style.
The stage was set against the backdrop of the British Museum's Elgin Marbles, ancient Greek marble sculptures that served as a poignant reminder of the rich cultural conflicts between humans and history, a seamlessly blended nostalgia with modernity, bringing to life the style and grace of a legendary Soprano performer.
Callas’s voice resonated through the venue, echoing the sentiments of the collection's inspiration:
"I would like to be Maria, but there is La Callas who demands that I carry myself with her dignity.”
For a journey through the fashion legacy of Callas, the soprano pitched up followed by a swelling bass music. The music continued with lamentations from Callas, narrating painful pasts, and struggles that she faced in her private and public life. She was a bilingual talent, and she lamented further in Spanish.
The show commenced with Guinevere van Seenus elegantly donning a sage green opera coat, worn over a white bralette, and paired with ostrich feathers marabou flats. A nod to Callas's iconic sense of style. From there, ERDEM's homage to the opera sensation unfolded with a symphony of textures and patterns, showcasing floral rose designs, houndstooth print, faux fur, jacquard with satin drapes, lustrous finishes that are suitable for a modern-day woman.



Each garment bore the hallmark of Callas's refined aesthetic, from double-breasted coats with flappy collar lapels to crystal hand-embroidered jacquard tops and skirts. The models, adorned with simple yet striking headpieces, exuded an air of modesty that allowed the exquisite craftsmanship of each piece to take centre stage.


You might have not known Callas very well; her eyeliner was just as excellent as that of Amy Winehouse. This season’s ERDEM women gave a fierce feline look with elongated black eyeliner. Amy Conway Bobbi Brown’s global pro make-up artist told Vogue.
“They are wearing fierce make up inspired by the opera singer Maria Callas, who was renowned for being a real powerhouse”.
A standout element of the collection was the incorporation of gold accessories, reminiscent of the opulent jewellery favoured by Callas herself. The oversized gold brooch inspired by a large rose bud adorned lapels and the earrings made a noticeable statement on the burgundy cape-shouldered drape dress and floral dress, adding a touch of glamour to the ensemble with chunky pearl drop earrings. Gold jewellery is trending as seen in Vogue 80s-inspired chunky earrings.



There is cultural influence from around the world, with garments reminiscent of Middle Eastern kaftans and Indian saris. Ethnic wear has seen a resurgence with many designers and brands providing you with endless options. The generous use of pastel palettes, red satin with embroidery and flowing materials paid homage to the modesty and elegance of these traditional attires.
The pastels, pink, mustard, sage green, grey and the hues of red, blue, and black coupled with intricate prints and textures, contributed to the creation of items that resonate with the modern woman's aesthetic sensibilities. The use of rose flower patches, jacquard, feathers, and faux fur added a touch of opulence and sophistication to the collection.
The collection not only celebrated Callas's style but also wove a narrative that transcended time. The floral modest dresses, inspired by a garden's bloom, embodied a sense of natural beauty and grace. The feather shoes and co-ord pieces, with their ostrich-feather-like allure, added a touch of whimsy and sophistication. The seamless incorporation of diverse materials spoke to the brand's commitment to crafting pieces that are not only visually stunning but also tactically diverse.



The designer skilfully utilized a variety of materials, each contributing to the collection's rich tapestry. Satin added a flowing grace, while wool and leather provided warmth, texture, and a contemporary twist on classic elegance. Herringbone and jacquard weaves brought a timeless quality, evoking classic sophistication with double-breasted coats. The inclusion of faux fur, flowers, gloves, and feathers reinforced the collection's homage to Callas, infusing delicacy and femininity.
As the show reached its crescendo, a live opera performance filled the venue, transporting attendees into the enchanting world of Callas. Models glided in unison towards the finale, culminating in a breathtaking tribute to the timeless elegance of a cultural icon.
ERDEM's Autumn Winter 2024 collection is not merely a display of sartorial craftsmanship but a poignant homage to the enduring legacy of Maria Callas. Through meticulous attention to detail and a fusion of cultural influences, Erdem Moralıoğlu has crafted a collection that transcends fashion trends, embodying the timeless elegance and grace of an opera sensation.
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