ERDEM’S harmonious homage to the heavenly singer

2024/25 ERDEM women's collection that recognised the unmistakable class that preceded Maria Callas

Erdem Moralıoğlu took us back to the British Museum for the fourth time for his autumn/winter collection this year. A theatrical and beautiful tribute to opera singer Maria Callas. Erdem captured moments of Maria in all 47 looks that were walking the runaway. We saw bold silhouettes, textures, patterns, delicate accessories, masculinity, and femininity, all in a carefully crafted mélange of timeless, ready-to-wear fashion. 

The show took place in the Parthenon room of the museum. Erdem was inspired by the Greek singer's interpretation of the opera 'Medea' in 1953.

"In the collection, I tried to capture and translate her gestures and the way she wore clothes into my clothes", says the designer backstage at the London Fashion Week runway.

First down the runway was a minty, sage ‘Opera coat’ with an overtly exaggerated collar embellished with a large but delicate gold tulip brooch. It was paired with a white, wired bustier and a matching green 'office wear' front slip pencil skirt. This created a flattering, elegant look, with the figure-hugging skirt and top combination underneath the bold silhouette of the oversized coat. This hopeful beginning to the show unravelled many playful combinations of styles and styling.

Tribute to the 50s idol was explored in a cleverly subdued way. We experienced patterns and shapes prevalent in the 1950s, the height of Callas' career. The silhouettes of classic opera coats were experimented with in multiple ways, but the integrity of Erdem's ready-to-wear and 'haute couture’ fashion remained.

The presentation of looks on the runway was cohesive and focused. Erdem presented two looks with the same old-school, vibrant sunflower print, both intriguingly dulled by different materials. The first time we saw this print was the 5th look of the runway, showcased on a gorgeous high-neck dress made with a sheer chiffon-like material. The second time we saw this print was the 9th look on the runway; again, it was a dress, but a completely different atmosphere was established. The dress silhouette beautifully cascades down the body in three different tears. The bottom tear is a medium to full balloon skirt with added pleats and a distressed hem. This maxi dress was a respectful accolade to 50s fashion while giving us some unexpected yet modern detailing. This piece was 'painted' with long grass green stripes that mimic the female body shape whilst not attempting to accentuate curves or become a flattering illusion. Erdem stated, “I found it so interesting, this contrast between the perfect ’50s cookie-cutter silhouette, and then really roughly painting the lines of the body.”

This look is undoubtedly 'ready to wear' with such an attentively crafted fusion of eras within the feminine design.

It's not all feminine shapes and prints we received. The  presentation of the two sunflower dresses sandwiched the appearance of a mustard yellow tailored two-piece. The front slip skirt returned to the runway in a rich yellow, paired with a blazer designed with another abstract overhanging collar engulfing the model's torso. Once again, honouring a traditional opera coat while simultaneously being modern and wearable.

Fabric choice is an intrinsic part of Erdems designs. Textures are widely explored and occasionally opposing - delicate and jagged. The collection includes weathered hems, layering, and multitudes of different fabrics, but it is difficult not to focus on the reappearing use of ostrich feathers throughout the show. The peculiar way the feathers are used through this is certainly noteworthy. Undeniably, the feather details on the model's shoes may only be for some. But the artistic mixture of whimsical and honest designs and fabrics made for a thoroughly enjoyable collection for the runway. A feather look which will definitely ‘take flight’ after this runway, is the chic dusty pink two-piece. The white bustier reappeared underneath this look. This monochromatic cardigan and skirt set is eye-catching with the pink feathers creating panels on each garment. This look was completed with matching pink feather ballerina flats.

Erdem's runway show had a poignant power; it did not feel detached or divided. A feeling of harmony and unison became the bloodstream of this collection as the designs masterfully eulogised Maria Callas. As all the models returned to the runway the  tribute to Maria Callas felt complete. A symphony of timeless fashion to respect the legendary soprano. With each magnificently crafted design, came the essence of Callas and the era, seamlessly fusing modernity with this nostalgia. A fitting homage, reminding us of the enduring love of both opera and haute couture. An unforgettable Autumn/Winter  collection of women’s wear at London Fashion Week 2024.