From Past to Present: Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025
Pulling from past fashion trends bringing them back into the limelight, with a modern twist
During the spring/summer 2025 Paris fashion week we saw the likes of many designers and brands showcasing their ready-to-wear line, Schiaparelli included. Headed by Creative Director Daniel Roseberry he celebrated the women that have inspired each and every look, helping bring his creative vision to the fashion world, “This collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life.”
Schiaparelli showcasing its future vintage line all while adapting the norm of fashion, had an 80’s throwback through their exaggerated shoulder pads, naked dress and many trending staples of the 1980’s. We look into what makes up the outfits from the walk and how Roseberry added a modern twist to the looks.
Structured and accentuated shoulder pads
As mentioned, Roseberry highlighted many shoulder moments to the show often exaggerating them, an homage to founder and influential designer Elsa Schiaparelli, the original shoulder pad designer, “renowned for designing bold clothing that quickly drew attention and provided customers courage and confidence.” Her legacy still as vibrant as ever through Schiaparelli. Along with the power suit shining on the catwalk the outfit accentuates the shoulder pads with poofy sleeves adding more volume to the overall silhouette.
Naked Dress
A concept still adored by many celebrities, Kendall Jenner Schiaparelli model included. Through the show we saw the likes of both minimal coverage and nude dress, pulling from icons like Cher, known for her bold and couture ensembles. While both naked dress and see-through layers were big in the 80’s, Roseberry highlighted a personal look of the night with an “Off-the-shoulder maxi knitted dress in white viscose with contrasting black transparent mesh strips.”
Large and chunky Accessories
Large statement jewellery has been a trend that comes and goes in fashion from Joan Collins boasting oversized necklaces in the 80’s to the statement necklaces worn by Rhianna and Blake lively in the 2010’s era of fashion. Now we see it rising again, completing any outfit and elevating the most basic of looks. Through the show we saw a showcase of statement necklaces, large asymmetrical earrings and mismatched bracelets, adding both interest and variety to the looks.
Corseted looks
Corsets have been around since the 16th century and while they adapted and changed over the centuries. The 1700’s the designing of stays and jumps, the early 1800’s corsets becoming shorter and later in the Victorian era lengthened again. Dropping out of style alongside the suffragette movement in the 20th century. In this day and age, corsets are worn purely by choice, accentuating waists and adding support to those who wear them. Through the Schiaparelli show many of the models showcased corseted looks accentuating their waists, adapting the silhouettes of the models further.
Patterned looks
From zebra print to checked looks, Roseberry showcased multiple full looks focused on patterns, in particular their yellow checked look, with a more simplistic check and modern air, it does feel like a nod to Clueless, once again pulling from past fashion trends of the late 20th century. An icon that showcased matching checked looks was Princess Diana, usually being “heritage check on her jacket and matching skirt are classic attire.”
Daniel Roseberry has been Schiaparelli's creative director since 2019 shortly after being “hailed as Elsa Schiaparelli’s 21st-century heritor” known for “reimagining her [Elsa Schiaparelli] mystical iconography for a time more haunted by the fame and fantasies of American pop” Daniel has encompassed the ideologies and iconography of Maison Schiaparelli. Showcased in the ready-to-wear spring/summer collection Roseberry takes his time to address both the impact of fashion and how fashion can adapt our outlook on the world we live in “The world may feel more chaotic than ever, but here, the mood is celebratory: both of what fashion can be, but of how fashion can make you feel.”
Along with his resurgence of timeless trends in a modernised outlook he celebrates all the women who helped bring his vision to life “every stunning model on this runway, my stylist, my collection director, my studio members. Every woman, from client to seamstress to artisan and technician.”
Schiaparelli showcased its future vintage line with asymmetrical accessories and pushing the norm of fashion, having an 80’s feel through their exaggerated shoulder pads. Through the 46 looks there were strong shape defining pieces both boasting the natural curves of the models and adding onto it manufacturing the silhouette.
While this is on par with their prior fashion shows Roseberry definitely created an experience recognising the resurgence of fashion trends and adapting them to the more modern time period. Along with the resurgence of classic trends, Roseberry makes it possible to both dress-up and dress-down outfits. Showcasing all sides of the spectrum coming together to build a cohesive catalogue, that I feel many will refer back to in the following fashion weeks.
Check out all the looks here!