Iconically British: Burberry’s display of their timeless designs.
Burberry encapsulates their perpetual brand identity with iconic Britishness in their recent London Fashion Week Autumn / Winter collection, 2024.
Plunging themselves into another display of haute couture with melodic music, an earthy environmental feel and high craftsmanship, luxurious British fashion house, Burberry, once again prove they can produce timeless designs. Whilst capturing the old, instantly recognisable style of British Burberry, a modern adaptation was seamlessly implemented for a fresh approach on the runway. By incorporating iconic British models, Naomi Campbell and Agyness Deyn, in the show at Victoria Park on Monday night, creative designer Daniel Lee epitomised the combination of ‘old’ and ‘new’.
The show took place in a crowned marque, a true historic homage to British culture with a mediaeval pavilion. Daniel Lee previously told Vogue, “as a kid growing up, Burberry [was] a brand that everybody in the country [knew]. It's really a symbol of the British”. Feeling personally tied to the brand as he grew up in Yorkshire, this show captures the essence of Britishness through the nature-evoking colour scheme, catwalk models and front row celebrities at the show.
British culture implemented through the show was evident through the celebrities that were placed at the front row of the event. Iconic British symbols such as Lily Allen, Cara Delevingne, Barry Keoghan and Olivia Coleman all attended in true Burberry style.
As the scene emerged, famous British model Agyness Deyn opened the runway. The atmosphere caused by the ambient lighting remained mystical, with a few dimmed spotlights highlighting her as she confidently glided down the catwalk. Faux grass was used as the catwalk, illustrating Burberry’s ideologies of their outdoor, wearable fashion. The accompanying outfit on Agyness Deyn was a sharp, long, perfectly tailored trench coat that also doubled as a turtleneck. I thought this idea was innovative as both trench coats and turtlenecks are timeless staples for generations, however, combined it translates to a modern and practical item that can be worn straight off the hanger. In addition, Agyness Deyn wearing this outfit with matching tailored trousers and hard-wearing boots, also demonstrates Burberry’s aspirations for combining an ‘older’ generation of models with new, much like their fashion aims to do.
Continuing with the melodic, soulful soundtrack of British muse Amy Whinehouse, coupled with the neutral, khaki and black colour palette of designs, Burberry produced yet another display of carefully crafted designs that remained true to their old-fashioned, chic brand. With a beautiful familiarity of Burberry’s iconic fabrics: tweed and cashmere, there were adventurous elements of satin, fur and velvet too.
Chunky woven scarves, practical bags, rubber boots with chunky soles, pleated long skirts and exquisite trench coats were consistent stand-out items on the runway. From the accessories to the wardrobe, it’s clear Lee had Burberry’s fundamental concepts as the focal points of his designs. This corresponds to a statement from Lee where he told Vogue, “It’s really [about] design with meaning, that’s innovative with a purpose, as opposed to just being innovative for a new silhouette or a new construction or technique.” Evident through his sustainable material (a renowned element of Burberry designs) in the turtleneck trench coat and standout designs such as the velvet, golden dress that could be worn to a high-end club in the United Kingdom.
As well, closing the show, Naomi Campbell wore a breath-taking green, textured dress, lathered in tiny crystals that coated her dress. The continuity of the runway in accordance with her dress made this design show-stopping. This also reinforced Lee’s inclusivity and ‘woke’ nature by choosing to place icon Naomi Campbell as the last model as it ensured Burberry is advocating for diversity boundaries to be pushed in the industry.
Lee also commented on the fact that “Thomas Burberry’s intention was to make clothes for people that were outside doing things”. I believe Lee captured this concept by the way in which the models' hair and makeup were styled. The makeup was kept to a minimum, which I thought was effective as it did not distract from the classical looks the designs offered. The dark contour allowed for a more sharp look on the models faces which correlated to the perfectly executed, sharp linings on the designs. Reinforcing the message of Burberry designing practical, outdoor clothing was demonstrated through the models hairstyles. The styling of the models' hair was subjective to their natural hair which I thought implemented a relaxed, carefree element, much like exploring the outdoors.
The claps simmered and the show closed leaving audiences feeling fulfilled as they had just witnessed ageless pieces of designs combine elegantly with the new generation of fashion. Burberry holds a significant place in British fashion due to its longevity of sustainable, wearable clothing as well as their ability to capture the classic British countryside in their clothing. I believe Daniel Lee will be able to captivate audiences and influence audiences with his cleverly crafted masterpieces as time goes on, if he remains consistent with his innovative creations, whilst still capturing the true elements of Burberry’s fundamentals.