A Soprano’s Lament: Exploring the beauty of contradictions in complex women in Erdem’s 2024 Winter Collection.
“I would like to be Marie, but there is La Callas who demands that I carry myself with dignity.” - Marie La Callas.
Erdem Moraliogou’s 2024 Winter collection pays homage to the most renowned soprano legend of the 20th Century, Maria Callas. Born in America and trained in Greece, the singer is well known for her faithful portrayal of Madea, one of opera’s most profile divas. In light of her successful career also came the hardships she had faced—from a love affair to the eventual deterioration of her vocal cords and inevitably her passing in 1977 of a cardiac arrest. Moralioglu is known for his poetic, timeless pieces that not only highlight eccentricity but evoke emotions of intensity and romance. The collection showcases the contrasting ideas of the off-screen and onscreen personas that make Maria Callas an iconic muse.
The fashion show was held at the British Museum, which is on brand with many of Moraliogou’s showings as this marks the fourth time a show has been held there. The show was held where the Parthenon Sculptures are kept, to allude to Maria Callas’ link to Greek culture as someone who trained there. These sculptures were originally moved from Greece which gives a historical and cultural awareness to the show.
There was a performance from Nadine Benjamin, a British Soprano singer, who is showing off one of Moraliogou’s black ensembles.
On social media, Moraliogou shows his heartfelt appreciation on Instagram, “Thank you to the phenomenal @nadinebenjaminsoprano for the most captivating final performance at the Autumn Winter 2024 show” to Nadine for bringing his vision to fruition.
Known for his way of expressing a story in his designs, Moraliogou’s comments on how the “collection was really about the idea of exploring beautiful contradictions” this is apparent in the runways as the models can be seen in an array of complex textures, silhouettes and expressing the idea of passion and tragedy from royal red to obsidian black. The drastic contrast of each piece's colour scheme exemplifies the complexities in not only womens wear but also Maria Callas’ life.
Moralioglu explains that the audience is taken back to 1953 to witness the performance of Medea by Maria Callas, and thus shown the intricacies and contradictions of the performance in linear to Maria's own story–where her onstage and offstage personas clash. A standout statement from Moralioglu himself is that “the production was like alchemy.” We are fully immersed in this idea of enchantment as the show highlights the seduction and allure that is couture.
There were several jaw-dropping pieces in the show, but one of the many standout pieces would be the black opera coat that extended the visuals of the model's shoulder in a dramatic but lavish couture. The coat was adorned with explosive black crystals that hug the rectangular silhouette that gives off a theatrical performance. Topped with long latex gloves to celebrate the feminine figure to add to this seducing look.
The designer was inspired by the draped and caped dresses that Maria Callas would wear when she performed, and many photographs of her would depict her in wig tape and dressed in luxurious silk dressing gowns and pyjamas. He directly referenced these photos to inspire his hair and makeup as the models are seen to be wearing exposed wig caps further contradicting this idea of onstage and offstage.
Feathers are a repeated theme as they exude a level of glamour and extravagance, with the feathering detail on the shoes also providing a unique spin to ready-to-wear footwear. Moralioglu takes this motive further with a feathered high-rise trench that engulfs the model's figure, giving off an unapproachable prima donna look with black and grey hues.
In honour of the soprano legend herself, this collection showcases a refined blend of offstage and onstage luxury with the contrast between ready-to-wear offstage silk pyjamas and a red showstopper in a peplum silhouette with a long cape trailing behind exemplifying the magnetism of the onstage.
The silk burgundy strapless plunge neckline dress, with ruching done to the breast of the garment, was an eye-opener for its ‘hero’ cape. The ensemble is paired with some flat-heeled shoes that are embellished with wispy feathers.
Many TV stars were present at the show including appearances from, Gala Gordon, Lily James, Nicola Coughlan and other notable figures. Nicola Coughlan, the Bridgerton star, stunned the paparazzi with a daring dark red plunge with puffed sleeves. The dress itself was a very detailed and daring choice, perfectly matching the grandeur of the onstage.
With the allure that the collection brought on the catwalk from floral prints to luxe silks and feathers, accessories such as the golden tulip-shaped brooches and jewels made for bold statement pieces of women who are beyond all adversaries. Maria Callas mirrors this same performance as she was unapologetically herself with the grace that is deserving of the title of Prima Donna. Moralioglu’s collection is a great addition to the London Fashion Week 40th Anniversary, celebrating the intricacy that is women’s fashion.