London Fashion Week 2024: Burberry, Molly Goddard, Erdem Collections Celebrate Past, Present and Future Trends
London Fashion Week 2024: Burberry, Molly Goddard, Erdem Collections Celebrate Past, Present and Future Trends
What do eBay watchlists; Burberry archives and 20th-century opera singers all have in common?
London Fashion Week, a beacon of creativity and fashion innovation, marked its 40th anniversary last week with a showcase of heritage and nostalgia compared to contemporary trends.
As the fashion industry evolves, designers continue to find experimental ways to pay homage to a brand's heritage as well as wider historical influences. While embracing the changes and challenges of the future, to create a fusion of classic yet contemporary styles.
This season, key London-based brands such as Molly Goddard, Ederm and Burberry took centre stage, offering their unique interpretations of the unspoken theme that permeated the runway – a celebration of history and nostalgia intertwined with cutting-edge style.
Molly Goddard: Channeling Childhood Nostalgia
Celebrated for her work with tulle and hand-smocked taffeta dresses; her AW24 collection was an eclectic display into the whimsical world of childhood nostalgia. With country western, playful neon pinks, bubble hems and polka dots adorning oversized outfits, and layered dresses that exhibit her exploration into combinations of old samples, textures and silhouettes.
“It's quite hard to explain, but it's a lot to do with texture and shape and even shapes on shape. So textures combining, pushing in pushing out, squashing everything so it is sort of fuzzy and blurry.” - Molly Goddard for Harpers Bazaar
“I have a long eBay watchlist and it’s full of weird brands like Oilily and Naf Naf. I just find kids’ clothing so much more interesting to work from. They’re cheaper to make and so there’s usually a lot more detail in them. Some of them have awful textures but when shrunken down it works. We’ve just refined them into something wearable.” - Molly Goddard for Harpers Bazaar
Drawing inspiration from vintage, secondhand children's clothes, and the latest country western trend cycle, the collection has seamlessly integrated contemporary ideology surrounding fashion sustainability with elements of childhood sentiment and rediscovery of self-expression and imagination.
Erdem: Timeless Opera Elegance Meet Modern Sophistication
Erdem’s showcase exuded timeless elegance with a modern twist, as florals and bold hues like red and navy commanded the spotlight. Silhouettes featured plunging necklines, flowing capes and trailing scarves, paying tribute to the iconic style of 20th-century American-Greek opera singer, Maria Callas, the collection's inspiration.
“That story and Maria’s own story is full of contradiction and this collection was really about the idea of exploring those beautiful contradictions, the idea of her onstage and offstage persona” - Erdem Moralıoğlu for Harpers Bazaar
Set against the backdrop of the British Museum, amongst the marble Parthenon Sculptures from the Temple of Athena; there is clear consideration for both the brand's recent history with the museum and Maria Callas’ heritage. Accompanied by a performance from Nadine Benjamin, a British Soprano, that created a theatrical experience entirely elevating the collection.
“We are taking our seats in 1953 for a career-defining performance of Medea by Maria Callas” - Erdem Moralıoğlu for Harpers Bazaar
Erdem’s collection captured the essence of sophistication and refined glamour, appealing to contemporary fashion enthusiasts with a penchant for classic beauty.
Burberry: A Contemporary Ode to Heritage
Burberry’s collection was a celebration of the brand’s rich outdoor heritage and iconic motifs, reimagined for the modern age. Neutrals, earthly tones and khaki dominated the colour palette, while longline skirts, pleats, oversized puffers and utility jackets added an updated edge.
“I wanted this collection to feel warm and protective” - Daniel Lee for Harpers Bazaar
With nods to Burberry’s signature plaid and ruffles, the collection embodied timeless British Style and materials, sourcing some inspiration from their suppliers of Irish and British wool. Creating a collection that alludes to a tone of understated affluence and sartorial style.
“We began in the Burberry archive and the mills of Lochcarron and Donegal. I wanted to take a traditional approach to the fabrics and how each piece is made. Craftsmanship has always been at the heart of design.” - Daniel Lee for Harpers Bazaar
In contrast with the affluent countryside inspiration; the collection acted as an accolade to the Noughties, another theme that has made its way back around the trend cycle. Famous noughties models such as Agyness Dean opened the show and walked to an Amy Winehouse soundtrack.
So what’s the fashion forecast?
Maxi Skirts:
Maxi skirts, radiate elegance and versatility, they are set to dominate wardrobes this winter, offering a perfect blend of comfort and style.
Scarves:
Scarves, both headscarves and trailing scarves are functional and fashionable; a simplistic way to upstyle an outfit or add that extra layer on those cold days.
Plunging Necklines:
For those seeking a touch of allure, plunging necklines will make a big statement, effortlessly highlighting your silhouette and defining your style.
Statement Prints:
Statement prints captivated audiences from vibrant florals to polka dots and the iconic revitalised nova plaid. Designers showcased a diverse array of prints, that will be sure to turn heads.
London Fashion Week’s 40th anniversary was a celebration of craftsmanship, heritage and creativity; offering a glimpse into the ever-evolving world of fashion through the lens of nostalgia.