London Fashion Week 2024: How does Lee's SS25 fit with the rich history of Burberry?
Daniel Lee takes on his fourth Fashion Week appearance for the most prestigious show of the event.
As we approached the tail end of London Fashion Week 2025, only one marque could be left to display their new collection.
Burberry brought their regular Sunday evening slot forward by a few hours to display their Spring/Summer 2025 range. They commandeered the National Theatre on South Bank with a brutalist set design by YBA legend Gary Hume.
‘I think at Burberry there’s definitely a consciousness of what we put down the runway. We want it to feel like a dream, but we also want it to feel a real proposition for someone that wants to go there’
This is Daniel Lee’s fourth runway show at the forefront of Burberry. Last year he impressed by bringing back Agyness Deyn, a noughties icon of the modelling scene. He was able to pack the National Theatre with a plethora of celebrities; Barry Keoghan, Jack Harlow, Olivia Coleman, Skepta. The list goes on.
Lee disclosed he that his hopes and intentions for SS25 were ‘a collection defined by easy elegance’, being ‘born of function, grounded in heritage’. The latter being a key cornerstone of Burberry as a brand.
A 21-year-old Thomas Burberry established the company in Basingstoke, 1856. His working principles were to create outerwear designed to defend and protect from the British weather.
Further down the line in 1879, he invents Gabardine (remember this for later, incredibly important term in the world of Burberry). A lightweight, waterproof, tearproof and breathable material that soon became a staple for the brand.
Gabardine was patented in 1888, nicely meeting the peak of interest in global exploration. Burberry Gabardine was now being worn in the harshest conditions on the planet, being the first choice of those embarking to the Poles.
As war broke out, Burberry became the choice of apparel to the British Armed Forces. They adapted products for warfare, the trench coat gained epaulettes to display insignias, a D-ring to attach military equipment, a gun flap for small weapons, and storm shield to allow water to run off efficiently.
‘Burberry was very clever in adapting to military requirements… what you’re talking about is outerwear being adapted for military use’
After the wars, they continued to grow into one of the largest fashion powerhouses in the UK. They became Weatherproofers for the Queen in the 1950’s, during a time where one in five coats exported from Britain were Burberry.
The late twentieth century was tricky for the company. Whilst being granted a Royal Warrant by the Prince of Wales as Outfitter, they had issues with reputation as the brand became more intertwined with streetwear; not the direction in which Burberry was destined to be taken.
And that’s where we can link the Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Items carrying Gabardine technology return every year with a new twist, and Lee has ensured that the tradition was upheld.
The staple trench coat returns once more. We can see how Lee has played with the general cut of the jacket, showing his individuality and the progression he’s looking to bring. Other house-icons within Burberry return, as they toyed with the trademark chequered pattern.
Lee wanted to display a backbone to the company of tradition and loyalty, whilst trying to develop the brand and succumb to the idea of opening up their products to the masses.
The show was rounded out by Maya Wigrim as she took to the runway in an evening dress partnered with an oversized parka jacket thrown on top. The issue of staying warm whilst going out in winter months has always been present, however this is a very 21st century solution to the problem by Burberry; why wouldn’t you want a warm, fluffy jacket on the way home after a night out in November? It has been a go-to concept for Lee, and it till stands out as one of the more relatable looks released today.
Another standout of the show was the accessories brought to the table by Lee. There has definitely been a focus towards what models carry with them down the runway, whether in their hand, on their shoulder or around their neck.
This long summer skirt was sported alongside a belt, instantly recognisable as a Burberry product; adding to the brand identity of the outfit alongside their classic logo placed on the blouse.
The look also includes white leather shoulder bag, with a more casual ‘b’ logo emblazoned on the face. It also features the Burberry patterned strap hanging down from the front. Subtle yet extremely effective.
Overall, you can see Lee maturing into the Burberry brand identity, taking a different approach to previous fashion weeks with more traditional, historic colours that link to the brand (remember AW23 with all those wild and wacky colour themes?). The clever set design of the bleak backdrop helped all looks to make a statement and has shown how Burberry is looking to attack the new age in fashion; no question a London Fashion Week highlight this year.
Photo credit: Tagwalk