London Fashion Week for Burberry is Straight from Outwear to the Runway as they Flood the Show with a Trail of Warm Colours
What better way to celebrate London Fashion Weeks A/W 40th Anniversary, than with a Homage to Burberry’s outwear origins.
The London Fashion Weeks main event, Burberry, starts the show submerged in darkness with the iconic Agyness Deyn being the first to step foot on the runway which was completely disguised in wood chippings allowing for a dark and sinister atmosphere to fill the tent which Burberry pitched up in Victoria Park for this London fashion week show.
Daniel Lee said in a pre-show interview that he “wanted this collection to feel warm and protective”, ditching the warehouse runways most top fashion houses go for was a step in the right direction for Lee trying to attain this ‘warm’ feel.
The atmosphere only deepened as the show was covered in a sinister loop of deceased British icon Amy Whinehouses “Back to Black”, the ominous choice of voice and setting perfectly fitting the dark toned coloured collection Daniel Lee had designed and was showcasing.
Burberry’s winding runway removed all sense of social hierarchy from the room, no tiering system left for a completely oblivious crowd all being sat on fleece cushions spread across the perimeter of the runway.
Daniel Lee did include a diverse range of models across the entirety of the show with a variety of ethnicities and ages all being displayed on the runway, staying true to Burberry’s morals that they “believe in Diversity, Equity and inclusion” and Lee’s 2024 Autumn/Winter fashion show was no acception of that.
Agyness Deyn strutted out of retirement wearing a slate-grey button down trench coat with a golden zip accompanying the buttons, paired with the matching slate-grey wide leg trousers upturned at the bottom to reveal a yellow and khaki tarten pattern to compliment the vocal point her coat.
Burberry’s Fall Winter 2024/25 range is full of a variety of trench coats and jackets all with a range of fur, buttons, and zip detailing. Designer Daniel Lee has drawn back on plastering his collection full of the Burberry equestrian knight design and classic neural tone tartan checked pattern which they have been famous for since Burberry was founded in 1856.
Daniel Lee stays consistent and on theme to what Burberry is known for by showcasing their most popular items both the trench coats and cashmere tartan scarf, but putting his own unique spin on them with a variety of fur trims, zips and shoulder straps. The shoulder straps and buttons were a design which was introduced in the mid 1800s to allow soldiers to fasten their bags to their shoulders for a means of practicality.
The full Autumn/Winter collection displays a war inspired look with models being dressed head to toe in khaki, big industrial boots and shoes detailed with silver buckles, aviator sunglasses which have been associated with fighter pilots since the 1900s.
Not only are they escorting the waresque khaki they are also wearing a significant amount of brown. The mixture of the two colours can be a link to wars which are happening across the globe, the use of brown and khaki perfectly fits what soldiers wear in battlefields to blend into their surrounding terrain. As well as linking back to Lee’s aim to create a “warm” outerwear collection.
It showcases a lot of very accessible fashion which you can imagine walking straight from the runway to the streets of London with a range of oversized blazer looks and wide leg trousers which nobody can seem to shake off from the last few seasons and are still a wardrobe must-have this 2024/2025 winter season.
Daniel Lee since leaving Bottega has put great efforts into making Burberry a more daily wear, weather appropriate brand by bringing Burberry back to it’s outwear origins. This clearly reflects in this line where he ditches impractical fashion only based garments and instead makes a line full of actual coats, jackets, scarfs and boots which will be practical warm winter essentials.
Retired supermodel Naomi Campell was the last model to leave the runway showcasing a strapless slate-grey evening gown, with a glittery fringe throughout, leaving the audience in awe.
Many familiar faces were spotted at the event from football star Gareth Bale to supermodel come actor Cara Delevinge who was sporting a red tartan jacket and the matching tights.
Lee’s number one aim in designing garments is giving his buyers what they want “people want to look hot” is what he described in an interview with W magazine, that’s exactly what he’s done with this collection.