Maison Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025: Daniel Roseberry portrays surrealism in a timeless vintage Ready-to-Wear Collection
An eccentric elegance of a runway
When acknowledging a ready-to-wear collection, it’s important to consider the level of balance between luxury and wearable pieces a show must present. Maison Schiaparelli’s Spring Summer collection is the ideal example of that concept, timeless fashion that is accessible and truly brings the essence of a ready-to-wear collection. Roseberry wrote in his show notes how this show is dedicated to a more wholesome meaning: “At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters,” Roseberry and his ‘future vintage’ collection, what he calls it, was presented in a gradient blue backdrop scenery show that began with the versatility of neutral-toned tank bodysuit pieces, excessive jewellery with slick back-hairs tied buns.
Roseberry was no stranger to the concept of features of corsets throughout the runway. Mona Tougaard stepped on the runway with a cinched corset white polo-style mini-dress followed by a braid coming down of the dress paired with brown belt heels that channel a jersey classic. There’s also a play and mixture of denim assembled as well with brown and blue raw denim halter neck corseted dresses. Kendall Jenner has also made an appearance on the runway wearing U-shaped slouchy jeans merged with a wool cream bodysuit that compliments modern comfort chicness. Note that jewellery plays a key part in this show as the model’s mismatched sizes of jewellery amplify the quality of the looks presented, such as the earrings featured in brass gold and silver with textured designs. If you're wondering whether to wear maximalist or minimalist jewellery next summer, why not just play with both like Schiaparelli’s models did?
Entering a new phase in the runway of freshly cut zebra print pieces and bold-coloured garments in various shapes and sizes. Zebra prints are gracefully incorporated and tailored into suits with gold buttons but also illusionary knitted striped dresses and miniskirts that are designed to resemble a zebra robe being worn on where it’s a pattern instead: Roseberry’s collection is a true nod to Founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s ‘pour le sport’ emphasises of comfort meets elegance in the garments. A different approach came to the runway as an oversized bright red keyhole teddy sweater with puffy sleeves that creates a batwing illusion with a mini skirt tied to the front paired with red cat-eyed sunglasses brought a bold, vibrant and cosy appearance to the runway. There’s also a similar oversized sweater in black that is instead paired with pants and chic black heels, bringing a conceptual connection between the two looks.
Seasonal summer statement pieces were also shown, captivating the sand-and-ocean natural imagery to life. Featuring complimentary shades of turquoise and sand neutral-toned keyhole on the front, silky draping swimwear-inspired dresses were on the bucket list for Schiaparelli’s Spring/summer 2025 prediction. Shoes throughout this collection have been eye-catching sights to view as unexpected twists like coloured flip flops were shown that captured the beach essence, but bold kitten heels were also presented as a popular statement. The show ended with three shockwaves of last pieces that took the show beyond its course. 3D-designed entirely embroidered sequin earthy shades of blue, green and yellow pieces that brought the essence of that pure natural elegance aesthetic Roseberry achieved. The details of the three pieces are unique; while they resemble each other, they also remain and accessorised differently.
Roseberry’s dedication towards the ready-to-wear for Schiaparelli’s has been eye-opening as he has outdone himself yet again with a futuristic fantasy meeting with elegance and grace runway. A lot of depth and work has been put towards this collection, as Roseberry mentions, his collection is rather a homage to all the women in his life. “This collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life. Every stunning model on this runway, my stylist, my collection director, my studio members—every woman, from client to seamstress to artisan and technician. This collection isn’t just possible because of you, it was designed for you and with you. It exists because of you.” “The world may feel more chaotic than ever, but here, the mood is celebratory: both of what fashion can be, but of how fashion can make you feel.” Says Roseberry as he sees his collections as a breakthrough of celebration and how fashion connects individuals.