Molly Goddard. A designer who epitomises the art of fashion.
The incredible way design can have a mind of its own and thrive through the unconventional.
During the AW 2024 show at London Fashion Week, Molly Goddard: a new upcoming alternative designer ‘taking the fashion world by storm,’ perfectly exemplified the way in which fashion can be whatever you want it to be. The idea that what you wear and how you present yourself is part of who you are, a form of self-expression perhaps… has been widely discussed within the fashion industry for centuries. In a designer interview with Net-A-Porter back in August of 2020, Molly Goddard herself explained that the act of dressing up isn’t ‘just the serotonin we’re craving’ instead it is ‘a powerful reclamation of our self-expression - and our identity, too.’
On a makeshift runway, in the venue of the Cecil Sharp House - otherwise known as the English Folk Dance & Song Society, models wear what can only be described as beautifully abstract pieces of artwork. Pops of colour ranging from hot pink to red, and orange to magenta, as well as accents of lilac, mustard yellow and deep purple. Chunky knitwear and ruffled tulle skirts, such textures were galore. Unafraid to dare, ‘Goddard was throwing shapes: painstakingly engineered forms in taffeta, tulle, and knit were laid atop one another to create fundamentally abstract material sculptures.’ The venue proved to be ‘a perfect backdrop for the collection,’ the ‘room’s frayed, very English dignity,’ complemented her work beautifully. The rich warm tones of the environment emphasised the eye-catching shapes and patterns of Goddard’s designs, accentuating the way in which they were brought to life.
Maintaining her reputation ‘as raw and innovative, while flourishing under recognition and commercial success.’ Molly Goddard has made sure to embrace ‘the anti-silhouette’ style of alternative fashion, otherwise described as ‘blobs on blobs.’ Goddard has quickly become a rising star in regard to notably designing clothing which unusually is ‘not directly attached to the figure of a body - instead letting the tulle take reign and honing in on her idea of comfort.’ By choosing boxy over slim fits, double layered cardigans, oversized cashmere sweaters ‘styled over cobalt-and-coral Disney dresses, their skirts bulging and bursting from beneath jumpers.’ Molly Goddard chose clothes that were ‘traditionally feminine in aesthetic’ - but didn’t feel the need to conform to the ‘traditional ideals of femininity.’
Although these seem to be new ideas, regaining prominence on social media at the moment. The logic behind such fashion choices makes perfect sense. You can still be comfortable, as well as stylish at the same time. Comfort is not only a key aspect of Goddard’s designs, it is at the forefront of her brand. Reflected throughout the show, all ‘pieces are girly and glamorous’ as well as ‘comfortable at the same time.’ However, this by no means translates to out-of-date or last season, cowboy boots, bows and ballerina pumps seem to be a reoccurring theme within the show. Highlighting a small number of trends that have recently cropped up on social media. As of last year, all of these pieces gained prominence, and have gladly made a comeback for 2024. Paired with a classic blurred red lip and corresponding eye shadow, vintage pieces such as these, pair well with the 80’s retro polka-dot prints featured throughout the collection. Although ‘a timeless look that transcends trend cycles’ the pop of red lipstick seems to be taking the limelight on this season’s runways. A trend seen a handful of times at New York Fashion Week is now gaining traction in London, resulting in a ‘romantic yet edgy way to wear the classic hue.’
Believe it or not, the initial idea for this collection was sparked whilst Goddard scrolled through childrenswear on eBay ‘I just find kids’ clothing so much more interesting to work from.’ Not only are they ‘cheaper to make’ there is ‘usually a lot more detail in them.’ What is even more interesting is how kids style themselves ‘if you see a kid in clothes when they have obviously dressed themselves’ they seem to look ‘a bit mad’ perhaps mismatched without any colour coordination. However, this is exactly what attracted Goddard to the idea. That as a child, this is considered perfectly acceptable as ‘you’re not defined yet as a person’ and that’s what interested her in particular. Although fashion can be a true statement of self-expression and identification, it can also be mysterious, eclectic, and full of surprises. Therefore, for the Autumn/Winter show this year at London Fashion Week, Molly Goddard’s style choices were inspired by ‘the bashful spirit of children ransacking their mother’s wardrobe.’