Molly Goddard’s take on “Cowboycore” London Fashion Week fall winter 2024
TRISTAN FEWINGS
The show occurred in Primrose Hill in the main hall of Cecil Sharp House, the home of an ancient folk dance society in London. Molly Goddard, known for her taffeta dresses, takes on Cowboycore with her twist of frothy concoctions, balletic tulle, taffeta skirts, and layered tops fused with western applique shirts which is further enhanced through a boxy silhouette that successfully conjures a visual delight that is “so ugly, it’s beautiful”.
Colour palette
Using neon colours paired with pieces reminiscent of the Wild West creates an innovative blend of contemporary modernism with the past. It is truly genius to use colours most unconventionally associated with the Wild West and create something new from it. The interesting pairings of colours within these pallets create a calming psychological effect due to their brightness and femininity. Red was paired with pink, which has a psychologically calming effect on the mind, whereas red is deemed a bold strong colour that represents passion. The combination of these two colours portrays the power of feminism. Despite the depiction of flamboyant, princess-like skirts, we see powerful women, not damsels in distress.
Beauty
Screenshot from youtube “Molly Goddard AW24 Runway Show
All models have their hair tied back into a low ponytail as if intending to create the illusion of messy hair that has not been brushed for days. Hairspray was used on the models to ensure not a single hair was out of place, creating a refreshing impression of low maintenance that combines elements of the Wild West and contemporary elegance. The makeup look consists of a minimalistic natural base with red lipstick in further allusion to the effortless vibe of the look. This allows the audience to engage more with designs instead of makeup.
Silhouette
Screenshot from youtube “Molly Goddard AW24 Runway Show
The boxy, loose-fitting aspect of all the silhouettes makes a statement that fashion is not about accentuating thin body types, but more so an artistic impression. Oversized cashmere sweaters are styled over long tulle skirts and crinkly smock tops are worn over the poofy skirts creating “blobby silhouettes”. Many clothing brands design clothes that are ‘flattering’, essentially accentuating curves, whereas this shows fashion is an art form, in that clothes don’t have to be flattering to be visually appealing.
Shoes & Accessories
Consistently throughout the show, the models are wearing leather school shoes and occasionally flat cowboy boots ranging from black to lighter colours. Some shoes have a linen trim that adheres to the theme of the Wild West. On several occasions, the ‘Sandwich Method’ is adopted, which involves matching two items of the same colour with a contrasting element in between. This is demonstrated through how the colours of the shoes match the tops, creating coherency and sophistication. Overall, the use of leather flats is simple and practical.
Some of the looks were paired with shirred solid colour handbags and multi-colour bags.
Personal insight
My take on Molly Goddard’s show was that it was very visually stimulating to watch. And despite the theme of “Cowboycore”, it reminded me of many other things than just the Wild West. The colour palette in this collection reminded me of the “Truffala Trees” from the children’s film “The Lorax,” since the colours we saw are almost identical to the palette used for the trees, in further allusion to the natural, yet fantastical aspect of the outfits.
Photo © Universal Pictures
At the end of the show when all the models came out together, it was as if being in a fever dream. Seeing all the individual looks come together at the end is like witnessing a snippet from the past, with a modern twist. The blend of simple baggy layered blouses and skirts with western applique shirts all together on the catwalk ties the whole theme together.
Could “Cowboycore” be the next fashion trend? Nouns ending with “Core”, seem to be very ‘in’ recently. First, there was “Cottagecore”, then “Coqeuttecore”. Could “Cowboycore” be the next big thing?