Neutrals for Summer and Spring: Burberry’s take on Quiet Luxury at London Fashion Week 2025
Burberry Embraces Tradition with a Modern Twist: A Shift Towards Accessible Luxury for SS25
In 2025, a neutral, well-curated clothing aesthetic is more trendy than a collection with lots of differing elements and clashing colours. Minimalism reigns high in a society obsessed with creating a “capsule wardrobe”. While we often criticize high fashion for being too extravagant and unrealistic, could the opposite also be true? If high fashion runways become too practical and attainable, do they risk coming across as uninspiring?
Daniel Lee, Chief creative officer, showcased Burberry’s latest collection on September 16, 2024, at the National Theatre — a venue whose Brutalist architecture provided a striking contrast to the sophisticated haute couture on display. The set design, created by acclaimed British impressionist artist Gary Hume, featured green tarpaulin draped like abstract tapestries, cut into irregular shapes reminiscent of Hume’s distinctive abstract style. The star-studded audience included British actors Olivia Colman, Michael Ward, and Jodie Comer, alongside sporting champions Keely Hodgkinson, Declan Rice, and Jack Draper.
At the heart of Burberry’s collection was the concept of quiet luxury: casual yet smart silhouettes, a monochromatic palette, and the brand’s iconic trench coat. The collection’s neutral shades of beige, lilac, and olive green reflected understated sophistication, drawing parallels to Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2025 “In the Hamptons” show, which was lauded as an elegant display of the American Dream. In many ways, Burberry’s collection felt like a British retelling of that narrative. As Daniel Lee put it, “A Burberry love story comes to life through the cinematic lens of this campaign. It’s about humour, optimism and, of course, the unpredictability of our great British weather.”
Burberry's SS25 collection is ultimately business centric, with its pinstripes and monochromatic suits. Monochromatic looks on high fashion runways are often partnered with a pop of colour, whether this is in the form of shoes or a bag. Though this show proved different with the pops of colour instead taking the form of a sequin fringed dress, reminiscent of the 1920s flapper dress. These reflective, opulent shades added a sense of celebration and after-hours glamour to an otherwise workwear-focused collection
The collection particularly embraced power dressing across both men’s and women’s wardrobe. The masculine archetype gained traction in Saint Laurent’s Spring 2025 show, with model Bella Hadid making a return to the catwalk in a boxy oversized black suit, slick bun and wide-rimmed glasses. Burberry reflected this trend on its own runway, with tailored wide-leg trousers, cropped blazers and stylised shirts.
Burberry is renowned for its iconic trench coat, but for the SS25 collection, Daniel Lee introduced modern updates to the traditional style. The classic silhouette was elevated with capes, feathered collars, structured waist elements, and French-style neck scarves. This evolution of the trench coat perfectly mirrored the broader theme of the collection: quiet luxury through understated sophistication. As Lee noted, “We need to find smart ways to take the check, to take the new codes, and evolve them into something that’s relevant to the stores.” By seamlessly blending practical elements with high-end elegance, Lee redefined what a classic garment could be. This balance of heritage and modernity made the collection one of the most wearable in recent times, reflected in the show's tagline “born of function, grounded in heritage”.
One of the more surprising elements of the show was the recurring appearance of the military jacket. Traditionally defined by sharp lines and regimented buttons, Burberry’s reinterpretation softened these features, creating a more refined garment suitable for workwear or a casual office style. British Vogue has predicted the return of the military jacket trend, inspired in part by Kate Moss’s indie sleaze era and the resurgence of the heroin chic aesthetic.
Despite the collection’s focus on practicality and wearability, the question remains about high fashion’s pricing strategy. If a brand champions accessible, everyday aesthetics, should its pricing reflect that ethos? As Daniel Lee stated, “I think at Burberry there’s definitely a consciousness of what we put down the runway. We want it to feel like a dream, but we also want it to feel a real proposition for someone that wants to go there.” Yet when a Burberry trench coat costs thousands of pounds, while nearly identical styles can be found at Zara for a fraction of the price, it begs the question: is high fashion truly offering something unique, or is it merely a status-driven cash grab?
As Burberry navigates this evolving identity, a new era is undoubtedly dawning. With new CEO Joshua Schulman at the helm and Lee’s vision steering the brand toward a more pragmatic yet aspirational future, the balance between accessibility and luxury remains at the forefront of British fashion’s most iconic house.