Rain or Shine - Burberry is British fashion
How Burberry are fusing old English country glamour and the naughties in their London fashion week show
Living in England, it is hard to imagine rain being a source of inspiration for anyone. However, not for the creative director of Burberry, Daniel Lee, who in his third show with the fashion house managed to collaborate traditional British winter looks with a hint of the naughties’ sexy style. Furthermore, he took this season as a chance to redefine the classic ‘Burberry Trench Coat’ starting with his inspiration from the British outdoors whilst also hinting at ‘the characters that wear Burberry’(Leitch, 2024). Earthy tones used in his collection such as mole skin, dark green and greys stay true to the style of his ‘inspirations’ such as rising star Barry Keoghan and rapper Skepta, all seen on the front row.
Lee redefined masculine silhouettes on both male and female models as they strutted around the jousting tent in Victoria Park nodding to the brands’ logo. Coats were seen with burgundy plaid and hints of mustard and silver buckles. Accompanying the redefined trench coats were turtlenecks, and for the women occasionally a plaid maxi skirt, perfect for a winter's day walk in London. Leigh stated "The collection itself is inspired by British and Irish wool and fabric, centred around protection and warmth. Burberry trenches are designed with texture in mind. Coats are at the core, and shoes and bags are functional. These pieces are made for the outdoors." (Burberry spring 2024 2024)
(Croft, 2024)
The traditional twist on modern fashion did not disappoint as different elements of texture were used to bring back that classic British countryside elegance to London. With the contrast of military-style jackets being followed by pinstripe zip-up trousers, it really brought the vintage and present-day together. With the use of both unisex accessories and items, it gave the collection a truly timeless and classic look. A collection which you could wear in ten years and still be the height of fashion. Nodding to nostalgia, Amy Whitehouse’s ‘Back to black’ was played at the show intertwined with a woman's voice stating “I love London ... the smell of London when it rains.”(Hui, 2024). Others however wrapped up warm in elegant silk scarves and textured ponchos to keep warm in the winter.
Throughout the work of the Burberry fashion house, there is no surprise that their designs hint at the future as well as the past.
The show would be incomplete without their staple piece, the trench coat, which was made with the fabric gabardine, created by the label founder Thomas Burberry in the late 1800s. Making it the first lightweight and breathable rain-resistant clothing. So it would only be true for Lee's third show with the brand, that he would pay homage to the brand's roots. To compliment his choice of direction he further decided to pair unique accessories to the outfits such as Burberry print umbrellas, to create a day-to-day wearability to his collection.
‘In jewellery, the Burberry Check and Equestrian Knight have been reimagined. Sculptural armour feather bracelets and souvenir pieces also feature.’ Lee mentioned after the show. The use of feathers on bracelets gives another nod to the outdoor direction of the collection. With it caring
on the reminiscent theme of hunting but also a cheeky nod to the naughties’ perspective as the early 2000’s was all about going bigger and better. While the use of duffel bags throughout the collection reminds the audience that this collection is wearable high fashion, and resistant whether you're on the tube or walking in the countryside.
Hints of the scent of rose, bramble and red berry fuse from the Perfumer H Ivy room spray collection, were used to set an aroma for the occasion. The audience was transported to an early autumn English garden.
(Wightman-Stone, 2024)
Special guests:
The star-studded show did not disappoint as British icons such as Naomi Campbell were brought back to close the show, to truly highlight the importance of the renowned British luxury brand. Wearing a dark brown shimmering strapless column gown alongside her iconic hairstyle she truly stole the show. Other 2000s legends such as Edie Campbell, Lily Donaldson, and Lily Cole walked the runway. A new face to the mix was the daughter of ex-Chloe designer Phoebe Philo. She glided onto the runway wearing a high neck mid-length butterfly trench coat, paired with a floor-length tartan skirt. Alongside these star-studded models plus-sized models were also seen, giving the brand an inclusive feel to their work as a brand for everyone.