Schiaparelli cinches the spring runway, proving elevated basics are back.
Exploring Schiaparelli's spring 2025 collection
Schiaparelli spring 2025 ready to wear show hosted in Paris in the historic place Vendôme demonstrates designer Danielle Roseberry’s incredible ability to take basics we think we know and contort them into cinched silhouettes every person dreams to see hanging in their wardrobe.
A reoccurring theme throughout the show is of course the corset. Despite the criticism which surrounds the corset with many branding it oppressive in both its history constricting women through limited movement due to its rigid structure and the unrealistic body shape it represents, Roseberry liberates us from those preconceptions and proves it an essential staple in becoming the Spring 2025 Schiaparelli woman.
Arguably, the most famous look to emerge from the show, was walked down the runway by Kendall Jenner. The look showcased a reimagined version of a cream corset paired with low rise jeans. Whilst the look appears to sound seemingly unimaginative Roseberry demonstrates his impeccable craft, as the corset and jeans are in fact a one-piece look attached at the waistband which helps mould the figure into the hourglass silhouette.
Roseberry reimagined the corset once more through deconstructing the ever-favoured white shirt. Corseted at the waist and padded at the shoulders Schiaparelli demonstrated the many ways we as a society have overlooked the classic white shirt. Whilst a trusted wardrobe staple for many either to throw on with some jeans or over a bikini in summer, Schiaparelli showcases us with yet another welcomed staple twist.
Double denim, or in particular denim corsets has since taken the 2025 fashion scene by storm and Schiaparelli may be to thank for that. Roseberry reimagines denim through playing with the different shades, focusing in on the popular emergence of dark denim. He experiments with the masculine and feminine combining elegant, divine like pieces with the stark contrast of the denim. The combination of both feminine and masculine pieces in carried throughout the show. Schiaparelli showcased the reimagined ‘power suit’ or ‘power coat’ which flows freely down to the Ankle, cinching at the waist creating a deep V neckline.
As anticipated the spring show was a star-studded event, with a high profile FROW including the likes of Kylie Jenner, Cardi B, Rosalia and Zendaya. Despite the FROWS inescapable celebrity presence Roseberry ensured each of their looks mirrored his runway mission of redefining basics.
Kylie Jenner swapped out her usual star-studded ensemble to an understated corseted black dress featuring a low bustline and twisted white straps. However, perhaps the biggest indicator of the shows more understated approach is the absence of Kylie Jenners Lions head. A significant feature which created a media storm in the previous season was noticeably not invited to the spring 2025 show.
Whilst the theme in the show was elevated basics, I can’t help but feel Roseberry was inspiring us to explore the importance of jewellery when crafting an outfit. Throughout the understated nature of the pieces our attention was instead drawn to the jewellery. The uniqueness’ of the accessories, particularly the gold hammered earrings often differing in size and shape could not be missed and play a key role in Roseberry’s vision for the collection.
As of 2024, leopard print erupted on social media and of course it then slowly found itself in our wardrobes. However, during the show I found myself asking is zebra the 2025’s leopard. Throughout the showcase there were an array of beautiful designs featuring either a full zebra ensemble or elements of its print. The zebra look featured is a nod to Daniel Roseberry’s ‘Future vintage’ name he dubbed for the show. In 2025 Roseberry says goodbye to what’s trending and focuses his designs on the future.
Daniel Roseberry designs were arguably one of the strongest offered to us this season. His ability to reinvent clothes which far past what’s trending and reimagine our wardrobe staples into something haute couture worthy is remarkable.
When talking about who he owed this season’s successes to “This collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life.” He Continues on to credit “every stunning model on this runway, my stylist, my collection director, my studio members. Every woman, from client to seamstress to artisan and technician.” However, a round of applause is certainly deserved for Daniel Roseberry and his work which continues to innovate fashion to date.