Schiaparelli Paris Fashion Week SS25: A New Meaning to The Word Vintage
Don’t underestimate Daniel Roseberry’s iconic take on these vintage looks.
Schiaparelli hit Paris Fashion Week SS25, and did not miss! Daniel Roseberry did not disappoint this year with a ready to wear collection straight out of a luxury vintage magazine.
Roseberry wrote in his show notes. “At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters”.
At the Place Vendôme, the stage lit up with ocean blue lighting before Mona Tougaard opened the runway, wearing a white mini dress, that was cinched to accentuate her waist. The dress was then knotted into a braid at the side which she held in her left hand as she opened the evening. Complimented with gold jewellery, the collection already spoke wealth.
Many famous faces also walked the runway this year with Kendal Jenna, adopting a cinched/ corseted waist, accompanied by U-waist jeans. It was clear that Roseberry had a clear idea, and he did not let his audience down!
Other famous faces include Candace Swanepoel, who rocked the runway in a fitted denim dress which not only spoke sophistication but also elegance and once again luxury. Adriana Lima returned to the catwalk after six years, wearing a black and white striped corseted dress with puffy sleeves, with golden buttons running down the middle. The model completed the look with gold chunky earrings and a thick golden bracelet, a Schiaparelli classic.
Roseberry said, “We’ve really experimented in the ready-to-wear on how to translate a couture sensibility in a way that feels comfortable and easy”.
The following looks were even more sculpted and crafted with the appearance of zebra print and bright pops of red. The audience were drawn to an iconic look from number 13, in which Maggie Maurer wore a red corseted long dress, where the corset was almost transparent (wow!) The dress itself was a ruby red which was tied into a braid, which Maurer held with confidence as she stormed the runway.
Welcome summer and hello shimmer! The runway turned away from the eloquent white dresses and welcomed beige and sandy garments, fitted in both extreme and natural shapes. A gold shimmer maxi with an iconic Schiaparelli keyhole centred under the bust line gave way to a turquoise frill co-ord with a matching bag. The model also wore a bright turquoise neck scarf accompanied by some funky glasses!
Next came sheer and denim with a beautiful blue transparent dress gracing the runway (one of my favourites!) The dress was once again tied into a braid, but down the centre of the bodice giving the dress an opaque look down the middle.
Next came strong themes of chicness with a series of black coloured garments, that adopted a more extreme look. Padded and wide shoulders made their appearance down the runway with the signature keyhole design being used on a series of garments.
Roseberry always finds a way to include a couture style within everyday looks. Schiaparelli herself was a surrealist, and an illusionist and Roseberry adopts her eccentricity and unconventional looks and turns them into his own, whilst still adhering to Schiaparelli herself.
Schiaparelli’s statement encapsulates Roseberry’s vision, “it’s an amazing time to be small, because it allows you to design with real purpose, and for us purpose wins over the banal every time. The world may feel more chaotic than ever, but here, the mood is celebratory: both of what fashion can be, but of how fashion can make you feel.”
The final looks returned to dresses and skirts, with immaculate embroidery of floral and coral-like designs. The bright colours threw an incredible contrast to the opening designs, which showcased the Italian fashion house of taking risks. Go big or go home- Roseberry certainly went big!
The runway was not the only place where we saw famous faces but, in the audience, too. Kylie Jenna was sitting in the audience, supporting her sister Kendall as she walked the runway. Kylie was wearing a black wool bodycon dress with white cross straps, along with a Schiaparelli gold cuff bracelet. She was a walking advertisement for the luxury brand.
After the show the audience were left in a state of awe with some posting on their social media, “what a fantastic collection”, “Wowww. So so chic and sophisticated” and “Everything is perfect omg”. Roseberry certainly made a huge impression with this show.