Schiaparelli SS25: An all-star-powered show of silhouettes

Shoulders, corsets and zebra print: Schiaparelli’s strong, sexy and chic Spring/Summer collection has been designed for women everywhere

Daniel Roseberry proves once again why he is among the top art directors of a fashion house at the moment. Schiaparelli took an eccentric step further into ready-to-wear, for only the 4th time, in Paris with a star casting of models, and showed even Prêt-à-porter can have that wow factor we sometimes only see with haute couture. Arguably, one of the most wearable collections this season has been created, as fiercly carved silhouettes were styled into pieces which are intended to be worn by generations to come.

“At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, for their daughters and granddaughters. Future vintage, I’m calling it”, Roseberry wrote in his show notes. 

There was a clear feeling of timelessness to the collection, which goes hand in hand with the ‘Future Vintage’ name coined by Roseberry, and a clear intent for the clothes to be liveable for women now and later manifest as heirlooms. 

Kendall Jenner, Adrianna Lima, Candace Swanpole and Vittoria Ceretti were among the blend of current and iconic top models who displayed the striking collection before a bold blue background, lit by studio spotlights. It was a meticulous play of sculpt and carve, with confident bustiers and tonal bodysuits a focal point as nearly every look included corset detailing. 

Bold gold accents were hard to ignore. The models were decorated in hammered golf cuffs, mismatched chunky jewellery and a point was made by the keyhole design, known as the iconic code of the maison, pasted on looks every so often. The oversized gold statements play into the modernised 80s ambience Roseberry seems to be inspired to create with this collection. And again the idea is suggested that even ready-to-wear can be glamorised and made to be alluring, breaking the barriers between haute couture and ready-to-wear. 

Models were draped in sheer and jersey material, over waist-whittling denim garments, with big shoulders being another centre-piece to the collection. It was hard not to imagine the models as walking art pieces or master architectural projects, as every look was impeccably styled and “intentionally tight”, as Roseberry commented. 

Schiaparelli exclusively made haute couture up until a few seasons ago, and previous Ready-to-wear collections haven’t been as breathtaking as this. The fashion house has noticeably taken inspiration from early ideas of Elsa Schiaparelli for these garments, who always had an artistic theme running through her couture designs. 

At another part of the runway, zebra was printed onto bulging shoulders and mini bags. Stating that we will continue to see animal prints make their way into the Spring and Summer of 2025. After a leopard print filled Autumn/Winter, Schiaparelli suggests the rise of zebra as a statement piece for 2025 with this collection. 

Shoulders too were at the heart of this collection, padded blazers and prominent sleeves flooded the runway, edging that familiar refreshed 80s look. Schiaparelli is known for toying with oversized sleeves and eccentric structures and further solidified its grip on this silhouette during the show. The opening look married dress shirt and corset to create a sculpting cuffed bodysuit. Another look further into the show took sleeves to an exaggerated level on a short sleeved black cardigan, finished with hammered gold brass buttons. 

Closing the show was 3D floral embellished garments which broke up the bright and bold colours that drenched most of the show, tapping ever so slightly into Haute couture. From a neck high body-suit to low cut mini dresses with statement necklaces, the structures highlight the female body and suggest a nod to Elsa Schiaparelli’s early artistic and surrealist designs. 

The collection was a breathtaking display of craftsmanship whilst also upholding Schiaparelli’s commitment to modern femininity, it is clear the fashion house’s main priority is to empower women through fashion.

“The world may feel more chaotic than ever, but here, the mood is celebratory: both of what fashion can be, but of how fashion can make you feel”, says Daniel Roseberry. His show notes are a profound reflection of his intent to evoke confidence and joy with this collection, presenting the power of clothing and how it can make women feel.

All images found on Schiaparelli: https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/collections/ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2025-1/