Schiaparelli stuns with a future-facing Spring Summer collection starring Kendall Jenner at Paris Fashion Week
Daniel Roseberry uses the past to move the brand into the future alongside the strong feminine
In 46 looks Daniel Roseberry proves why he is the perfect creative director for Schiaparelli, creating another masterclass in how to pay purposeful homage whilst facing the future in his Spring Summer 2025 collection showcased at Paris Fashion Week.
The fourth ever ready-to-wear runway for the couture brand was graced by numerous fashion icons, from Victoria’s Secret runway legends Adriana Lima and Candice Swanepoel to Kendall Jenner and up-and-coming models Mona Tougaard and Vittoria Ceretti.
The collection, according to Roseberry’s show notes, was made not just for the clients themselves, but “for their daughters and granddaughters” too; he calls it “Future Vintage”.
This description is apt for a collection that uses the history of the house alongside an effortless modern elegance, one which ages timelessly with a signature Schiaparelli celebration of the strong feminine.
In his show notes, Roseberry emphatically expressed that ‘this collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life […] This collection isn’t just possible because of you, it was designed for you and with you. It exists because of you.”
This sentiment, combined with Roseberry’s established appreciation for the human body as a source of inspiration, shines confidently throughout the entire collection. The female figure was continuously accentuated by tightly cinched waists, wide shoulders and exposed torsos, all serving to provide the classic and powerful hourglass image which dominated the runway.
Complementary to these silhouettes was a sense of elegance owed to simple but expert use of colour, print and fabric. For the most part, Roseberry thwarted the expectations of bright colours for Spring Summer collections to use predominantly black and white. In doing so, he created more timeless pieces which were kept light and breathable by pique fabrics, mesh and thin jersey or knit.
These fabrics were draped, cinched or gathered on the bodies of tall slim models to incorporate the female form as a seamless and vital piece of the look itself, creating the idea that the wearer of the clothes can be a part of its longevity – the feminine will always be a part of the future of fashion.
Roseberry did not shy away from occasional pops of colour though, making use of a vibrant scarlet for a simple ribbed knitwear set and a more daring extremely oversized teddy jacket. However, the standout scarlet piece - donned by Schiaparelli muse Maggie Maurer - was a bold mesh polo bodysuit which exposed beneath it a satin corset, paired with a matching pareo skirt. Combining a dramatic silhouette with a striking scarlet, the look personifies the collection’s faith in the strong feminine as something forever-fashionable. As said by Grazia magazine, “Daniel Roseberry will never cease to deliver on wow factor”, and this look is certainly a testament to that truth.
The final puzzle piece of the “future vintage” collection is the presence of self-referential vintage. This is woven in by gold accessories – another signature staple of the house - which pay homage to founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s most iconic motifs, ideas and imagery.
Her fondness for surrealist design is acknowledged by anatomical bags and cuffs, fishbone necklaces and nipple earrings. The appearance of sleek futuristic eyewear in a select few looks also acts as a nod to the house being the first to license sunglasses.
As Marie Claire appropriately noted, Schiaparelli is a “fan favourite for its avant-garde pristine garments and pioneering accessories. This season is no different”
An appreciation of the house’s history was completed by an abundance of lock and key accessories, which appeared as details on dresses, buttons, heels, necklaces and earrings. Using the key of the past, Roseberry unlocks Schiaparelli’s future.
The creative director, who has been with the house since 2019, has previously said that Elsa Schiaparelli’s work “was always changing” which gave him the “freedom and permission […] to constantly be evolving.” Undoubtedly, this collection demonstrates this evolution more than ever before, moving the brand into its exciting new future.
With the innovative Daniel Roseberry at the helm, Schiaparelli is equipped with somebody that completely understands and complements its history. It seems inevitable that the once exclusively-couture house is decidedly on course for a successful future on the ready-to-wear fashion week runways.