Schiaparelli’s 2025 spring/summer ‘future vintage’ collection and how it compares to Elsa Schiaparelli’s vision
Daniel Roseberry showcases his Prêt-à-porter collection naming it ‘future vintage’, however how does it compare to actual vintage Schiaparelli?
The Schiaparelli 2025 spring/summer ‘ready-to-wear’ show at Paris Fashion Week in September 2024, was filled with unique silhouettes, strong colour combinations and modern luxury. He successfully combined multiple key elements of the fashion house into his collection such as references to art, distinctive silhouettes and practicality. The collection includes bold, beautifully tailored coats with zippers, bodysuits and corsets, long dresses with exceptional patterns and polished high heeled sandals with every model wearing signature chunky golden jewellery as the finishing touch.
Artistic director Daniel Roseberry aims to reimagine the art of Elisa Schiaparelli’s legacy through combining the old with the new in this collection.
“At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters. Future Vintage, I’m calling it.” said Roseberry regarding the collection. This collection clearly aims to stand the test of time.
Roseberry emphasises the celebration of women aiming to create a sense of empowerment in the same way that Schiaparelli centred women around her work. Elsa Schiaparelli designed fashion for women amidst both world wars which is what ultimately created her distinct sense for practicality. To embody this, Roseberry’s collection includes elements of women’s business wear such as blazers and shirts however he still provides the important sense of femininity by accentuating the female figure through corsets and sleek dresses.
Let’s look at some of the looks from the runway and see how they parallel Elsa Schiaparelli’s iconic style.
Elsa Schiaparelli was known for designing sportswear outside of her haute couture pieces. Her sportswear was distinctly versatile and casual but also unique. In Roseberry’s collection, the model above is styled in a fitted red knit collared jumper that replicates women’s zip up jerseys, sunglasses that resemble sports frames and moulded slippers that could be compared to swimming fins. Roseberry ensured that even the sportswear inspired looks glorify the female silhouette by implementing a matching pencil skirt. Beyond the sportswear parallels, Roseberry clearly took inspiration from Schiaparelli’s unique use of metal in clothing through the anatomical silver charms at the hem and cuffs of both the jumper and pencil skirt.
Here we can see the clear focus on women’s practicality and business wear. The model is styled with a tailored jacket and matching suit trousers that flaunt black and white ‘trompe l’oeil’ stripes which refers to an artistic technique in which two dimensional images are made to look three dimensional. Elsa Schiaparelli enjoyed including whimsical patterns and decorations into her design such as when she used geometric shapes in the colours of the stars, moon and sun to create her iconic ‘Evening Coat’ in 1939. Schiaparelli’s first iconic creation consisted of a black and white knit sweater that featured a trompe l’oeil design therefore it is clear that this pattern is a staple within the fashion house and Roseberry did it justice.
The finishing look of the night features a dazzling tulle dress covered in sequins and flower motifs. This time, the model is styled with less jewellery to emphasise the piece. Elsa Schiaparelli was vocal against the simplicity and muted colour palette of many contemporary designers during the time therefore her work usually featured bold, eye-catching colours. Along with Schiaparelli’s use of different materials, Roseberry combines these elements of her work into this astonishing piece.
Embracing Elsa Schiaparelli’s love for art, Daniel Roseberry was also inspired by the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. This is apparent through the colour scheme used throughout the collection - bright red, blue and yellow akin to the abstract art of the famous painter.
Daniel Roseberry was correct to label his ready-to-wear collection ‘future vintage’. His collection seamlessly blends the past’s timeless elegance with the modern-day vision of fashion. By reinterpreting Elsa Schiaparelli’s work, Roseberry has created a collection that feels both nostalgic and innovative.
Daniel Roseberry expresses his gratitude towards his team in a statement,
“This collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life. Every stunning model on this runway, my stylist, my collection director, my studio members-every woman, from client to seamstress to artisan and technician. This collection isn’t just possible because of you, it was designed for you and with you. It exists because of you.”