Schiaparelli’s Spring-Summer 2025 ready to wear collection: Bringing the Past, Present and Future together.
Schiaparelli’s ready to wear ‘Future Vintage’ collection is Daniel Roseberry’s ode to women and the future girls of the world.
Schiaparelli’s creative director, Daniel Roseberry is no stranger to fashion. Having worked at Thom Browne for ten years and now at Schiaparelli since 2019 - helping in the revival of the fashion house, and since 2023, changing the image of Schiaparelli from a purely haute couture house, to having ready to wear pieces alongside shows. When Elsa Schiaparelli founded the house in the mid-1920s she was inspired by the surrealism movement by artists such as Salvador Dali and today that is no different. Roseberry’s collection clearly has surrealist pieces flowing throughout - from the hourglass feminine shapes, to handbags with faces on them.
In his show notes, Roseberry says, “At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for the clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters. Future Vintage, I’m calling it.”
This shows the continuous celebration of the original message of Schiaparelli and that even now, nearly a century later, Schiaparelli is still being used to promote and uplift women. Roseberry also went on to write, “This collection, like all my work, owes everything to the women who brought it to life… This collection isn’t just possible because of you, it was designed for you and with you.” It is clear from this that Roseberry values all the women he works with and loves to give his work back to them in thanks and I think that is what makes Daniel Roseberry as a designer so special.
The collection itself was classic Schiaparelli. Gold jewellery adorned the models, with bold and interesting silhouettes - from sculpted hourglass figures to power-suit-esque shoulders. The show had everything from beautiful dresses, with classic Schiaparelli motifs such as the key and keyhole. All 46 models had uniform slick back hair held in a twisted bun and minimalistic makeup. This choice seemed to be to ensure that all focus was on the outfit and nothing but the outfit.
Models such as Kendall Jenner, walked the show wearing an off-white wool jersey bodysuit and raw denim trousers with E and S embroidery on the back pockets. This is one of Roseberry's many nods to Elsa Schiaparelli in his designs. To accessorise she wore mismatched gold brass earrings - one maxi-hoop and the other a signature mouth. Her heels were black leather with contrasting gold stitch Measuring Tape Embroidery. Many of the 46 models wore these heels and I found them to be a nice but simplistic touch to the already incredible outfits.
Adriana Lima wore a shirt dress with a similar style to a power suit - broad shoulders and a harsh collar - whilst also wearing heels with a keyhole on the strap. Another item that stuck out for me were the surrealist-like bags with faces on them. Some of the models were carrying bags decorated with hammered gold brass forming a trompe-l’oeil face. This is an interesting way to add surrealism to an outfit without making it too bold and outstanding for the wearer.
However, while many of the pieces looked amazing, one stood out to me as almost tacky. Some of the models wore moulded leather slippers with a toe ring. To me this gave the appearance of not fully finished and mismatching the stunning outfits worn. Perhaps Roseberry was sending an ode to the jelly shoe craze of the early 2000s.
Roseberry closed off the show with three floral pieces. Each model was adorned with hand painted embroidered floral pieces. It created a landscape of spring on the models and closed the Spring/ Summer show perfectly. The showing of these outfits gave the feeling of newness and freshness but also dipped into the idea of ‘Future Vintage’ as the Earth is timeless, nature has and always will be here. Florals are also linked with femininity linking back to Roseberry’s ode to women of the now and the future.
All Images Courtesy of Schiaparelli: https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/collections/ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2025-1/