Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025: Elegance and Timelessness Are In
Daniel Roseberry’s newest ready-to-wear collection was all about timeless pieces with a modern twist for Spring and Summer.
"At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters. Future Vintage, I’m calling it," said Schiaparelli's creative director Daniel Roseberry in his show notes. The polished minimalist looks he presented on the runway proved he did just that—created timeless yet exciting and unique pieces to wear this summer and the next. The collection consisted of 46 looks, ranging from pareo skirts and fish-inspired jewellery to elevated evening dresses, transporting the audience directly into the heart of summer. Showcased against an ocean blue gradient background, it felt like walking through a stylish beach town on a warm June evening.
The show opened with classic silhouettes reimagined. An off-white oversized button-up shirt with a structured waist, a polo bodysuit with similar corset detailing, and a tank bodysuit with an accentuated waist. The latter was worn by supermodel Kendall Jenner, paired with dark fitted denim jeans and a tan shoulder bag. Throughout the show, simple minimalist looks were made more interesting and feminine by playing with shapes: pairing oversized elements with corsets, accentuated hips, and elevated shoulder pads. Multiple looks featured oversized collars as well, and sleeves too long to reveal the models’ hands.
Prints also made their mark on the runway. Adriana Lima strutted down the catwalk in a black-and-white checkered dress with gold buttons and a wide-open collar. Soon after, two models emerged wearing zebra-print outfits head to toe, including oversized jackets with large collars. Other models wore loose-fitting striped suits, complete with matching bags.
Across the collection, metallic accessories and dresses made a statement. Two memorable long fitted viscose metallic dresses stood out. A pink "nude pique viscose" dress featured a rounded décolleté and swimmer’s back, while a similar turquoise creation showcased cutout details to form a trompe l’oeil swimming costume through the mesh, according to Roseberry’s show notes.
A particularly eye-catching look featured a black see-through bodysuit with cutouts resembling a teardrop on the front, paired with a black sarong skirt and a long fish skeleton pendant earring. The model’s attire gave the impression she had just stepped out of the ocean and wrapped a towel around her hips—an interesting play on shapes and textures, staying true to the summer theme. In a similar concept, a striped long viscose dress and matching set also evoked a towel wrapped around the model's hips through playful use of print. While the collection included many timeless, fairly simple pieces, each outfit still intrigued with its unique shape, print, or texture.
The show’s colour palette reflected both the brand’s classic and elegant signature style, as well as the summer theme. A cohesive blend of off-white, nude, black, faded brown, and beige ran throughout the collection. Only three bright colours were used: a rich mustard yellow, which appeared in a matching three-piece linen checkered set, and a two-piece cotton skirt and oversized jacket with a sheer exaggerated collar; different shades of blue, featured in five consecutive feminine and elevated looks capturing the essence of the ocean and summer blue skies; and vivid red, seen on a fitted knit jumper and matching skirt, oversized teddy jacket, and see-through bodysuit paired with a skirt—this red was a recurring element across multiple looks. The use of the skirt's fabric to create a long braid, which the models held while walking down the runway, added a dynamic touch.
Models walked in heeled sandals, moulded slippers, mules, and pumps, mostly in neutral leather, decorated with gold metal and rhinestone details, and the brand’s signature Measuring Tape embroidery. Staying true to Schiaparelli’s house codes, Roseberry accessorised many of the looks with asymmetrical earrings and large cuff bracelets similar to those seen in his SS24 ready-to-wear collection, as well as gold and silver curved tube-like chokers that closed the show with statement pieces. The bags, adorned with gold and silver metal details, complemented the show’s summery atmosphere, with colourful clutches, mini bags, and sophisticated yet casual large round leather bags.
The models wore tight slingback buns and minimalist natural 'glowy' makeup, a consistent look on and off the runway in recent years.