Schiaparelli's Spring/Summer 2025: Where luxury meets wearability, and bold femininity takes the spotlight
Merging powerful shapes with subtle luxury, Roseberry’s collection makes a statement in modern fashion.
At Paris Fashion Week this year Daniel Roseberry, the creative director, presented Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, called “prêt-à-porte” (ready-to-wear), that blend luxury and wearability. Bold femininity, luxury and power dressing, a staple for Schiaparelli, were central in this collection, which Roseberry himself described as “future vintage.”
Roseberry’s plan with this collection was that it could be worn across different generations, as he put in his show notes: “at the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters.” This idea show that Roseberry’s collection isn’t only about luxury, it’s about making pieces that can keep living in the fashion world.
The lineup for the show starred a few Victoria Secret supermodels like Kendall Jenner, Candice Swanepoel, and Irana Shayk. While those are big names in the industry, the real shock of the show was the return of Adriana Lima, who showed up after having taken a six-year break to focus on her family. She walked down the runway in a white pinstriped dress with the same patterned corset over the waist, oversized gold buttons, the iconic ‘secret’ mini bag and statement earrings, fitting in with the overall tone for the collection.
Most of the models were seen wearing tight-fitting corsets or dresses that showed their every curve. The form-fitting pieces were bold and powerful and most of them featuring high collars and broad shoulders, this making their waist look even smaller. Roseberry himself was aware about the tight-fitting clothes, saying, “The collection is intentionally tight. But it’s an amazing time to be small, because it allows you to design with real purpose, and for us purpose wins over the banal every time.” While these dresses made a statement, their focus on a limited body type could spark backlash and limit the collection’s appeal to a broader audience, as those with different body types may feel excluded by the brand.
Accessories were also a major part of the new collection, featuring both new and iconic additions. A signature of Schiaparelli, the oversized jewellery, took the centre stage in this collection. Every model wore it: hanging off the back of their coat, draped across their arms, or in the form of bulky earrings. This added a touch of magnificence to the looks, adding to the bold and luxurious theme in the collection. The classic Schiaparelli’s ‘secret’ bag, with the padlock clasp, was brought back with new stunning colours. While a new bag featuring zebra jacquard print in soft cotton made its debut, called the ‘Hobo’ bag, available in both full and mini versions, it can become a new iconic bag for Schiaparelli.
The footwear was different compared to the usual Schiaparelli heels. In this collection they introduced an exclusive line of flats, offering a new side of the footwear from Schiaparelli. The flats had a different shape as they were moulded into anatomical foot shapes, offering a new and fun side compared to the usual Schiaparelli heels. They come in colours like black, silver, beige and then a more playful, eye-catching aqua-blue ombré. This unexpected addition shows Roseberry’s idea about the wearability side of the collection.
Braids were another unique touch. However, the models didn’t have braids in their hair, as you might expect, instead, they were integrated into the clothing. The braided details could be seen in different forms, for instance: the models holding onto the ends of braids, like whips, that were woven into their clothing. This element added a unique dimension to the collection, enhancing the luxurious and special feel.
When it was near the end, models with floral-embroidered pieces entered and stole the attention from the show. The colours and material elevated the pieces, making them stand out more than the previous clothes from the collection. The combination of green together with blue and purple added a sense of depth, while the contrasting pink and yellow added a lively touch to the more dark and calm colours.
Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a mix of luxury and wearability, combining tight corsets and dresses with contrasting pieces featuring big shoulders and high collars. Even though Roseberry was aware of the statement he makes with the mostly tight-fitting collection, the emphasis on a specific body type could possibly lead to backlash. Despite this, designing with intention and purpose to celebrate fashion in both form and feeling is Roseberry’s vision.