Schiaparelli’s timeless pieces are redefining vintage at the Spring/Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear show
Exploring how Daniel Roseberry creates a generational wardrobe through timeless pieces at the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025 ready-to-wear show
In Paris on the 30th of September Schiaparelli opened their Spring/Summer ready-to-wear show, with corsets, gold hardware, surrealist accessories and denim creating a generational wardrobe for their clients. Daniel Roseberry, the creative director, called this show ‘FUTURE VINTAGE.’
‘Future Vintage’ is reinventing the classics, through timeless pieces paired with extravagant heirloom jewellery, Roseberry made ready to wear clothes look couture. These pieces are meant to be adored by all, creating the idea of a generational wardrobe. As each look took to the runway it was clear that Roseberry embodied ‘Future Vintage’ whilst keeping Schiaparelli signature couture style.
“At the beginning of this collection, we decided we were going to make clothes not just for our clients, but for their daughters and granddaughters,” says Roseberry in his show notes. This is achieved through the classic heirloom pieces and the simplicity and wearability of their knitwear, linen and denim throughout the show.
The idea of ‘Future Vintage’ was effortlessly achieved in the first looks on the runway, Look one and Look two, are cohesive, setting a theme for the rest of the collection. The contrast between the coresetted looks and the long-sleeve shirt bodysuit and the piqué jersey polo bodysuit create contrast and accentuate the female figure. Roseberry states “Prêt-à-porter collection is intentionally tight”, corsets are coming back into everyday wear and Schiaparelli perfectly represents this by designing his pieces to showcase the captivating silhouettes walking the runway.
The timeless beauty of gold hardwear elevates these looks, creating cohesion throughout the show. The mismatched dramatic jewellery is eye-catching, many featuring the signature nipple, this is an ode to Elsa Schiaparelli and her passion for surrealism. Originally asymmetrical jewellery was “prized for their uniqueness and symbolism”, Roseberry uses this throughout the show as a playful artistic expression.
Surrealist accessories can be seen throughout the show with eyes, noses, nipples and teeth appearing on earrings, bags and buttons. Look twenty-five features these details: the “Anatomy Jewellery bag…with signature anatomical details in hammered gold brass and enamel forming a trompé-l'œil face.” As well as the mismatched earring with one side having the “signature hammered gold brass and enamel Eye”
The accessories featured throughout the ‘Future Vintage’ show help create a generational collection, Glamour magazine described this as a “modern heirlooms for the brand's clients” feeding into Roseberry's idea of creating a collection for the family. This look also showcases the timeless everyday wear of denim, which helped highlight the dramatic collar and gold hardware to create an effortless look.
Everyday wear denim has been elevated throughout the show, Kendall Jenner strutted down the runway in a low cut, u-shaped dip jeans which caught the audience's attention. The simple yet elegant pieces Jenner wore are essential for creating clients' timeless wardrobes; the shapes, structure and material cohesively create this ‘Future Vintage’ vision.
Coresets which were historically worn in the Victorian era and have come back into everyday wear in the past few years, Schaiaparlli repeatedly features them throughout the Spring/Summer show to showcase the female figure and create a timeless look. Runway Magazine described the collection “as a timeless testament to the essence of fashion as both an art form and a lineage.”
The star-power on the runway did not distract from the clothing, the ‘Future Vintage’ idea was beautifully captured by the looks worn by Kendall Jenner and Adrianna Lima. Adrianna Lima makes her Paris runway debut again after six years of absence, wearing a white linen checked shirt dress.
People magazine described her as an “80s boss lady”, the wide collar paired with the structured bodice accentuated her silhouette. The repeated gold headwear and mismatched jewellery further create this ‘Future Vintage’ look, with her shoes having the signature key hole strap and the rhinestone ring on the heel.
“We've really experimented in the ready-to-wear on how to translate a couture sensibility in a way that feels comfortable and easy,” Roseberry states. The pieces created for this show are high quality, avant garde and elegant, they are able to capture a high couture style and aesthetic whilst being wearable and comfortable.
Roseberry did a phenomenal job in creating timeless pieces for their clients' generational wardrobes, full of heirloom accessories, effortless corsets and structured pieces to accentuate the figure. Roseberry has redefined vintage creating the future of fashion in the show “FUTURE VINTAGE”.